MAKING headlines season after season by paving the way on an anti-fashion road, all eyes were on Demna Gvasalia’s AW19 show yesterday evening. The show was set in the stunning Grande Galerie de l’Évolution resulting in wildlife serving as a backdrop to Vetements’ quite sinister AW19 collection.
The collection started off with a warning, hinting at the inspiration behind the collection – the dark web. Followed by a parade of models dressed in pretty mundane almost basic clothing, at least for Demna’s standards. A variety of black baggy trousers came down the runway, all paired with oversized boxy shirts, jackets and fleece zip-ups.
It was only when a neon green-haired model pulled off some slouchy cameo trousers, with one too many pockets and layering an even bigger jumper on top, teleporting the audience back to the early two-thousands, that we saw the Vetements who we knew and loved. Following this look, models were sporting some loose-fititng jeans, hoodies, and jackets all covered in internet and security references, such as interpol or the dreaded 404-error. Referencing the anonymity of the dark web, and anti-social behaviour of smartphone obsession through out-of-proportion hoods, caps, and balaclavas.
The collection didn’t lack a sense of humour, another usual suspect at any Vetements show, with hoodies reading: It’s my birthday and all I got was this overpriced hoodie from Vetements and, I survived swine flu, now I’m vegan.
Concluding the collection were some more oversized duvet-like puffer jackets, a strong layering game with clashing prints. But we hit the Vetements five-star moment when the ultimate out-of-bed-look made its entrée. Loose polka-doted pajama-trousers were worn underneath a white My Little Pony jumper and a pink fur quilted coat finished off with a mask just leaving room for some eyes to peep out. As the show went on the pieces got quirkier and stranger. Introducing the next fashion fad: the oversized flap-hoods, perfect for every smartphone user who wants to protect his/her identity, or keep out the sunlight?
Truth be told this collection didn’t raise our eyebrows – or should we say hat flaps? – as much as former seasons have. Perhaps we have come accustomed to the Vetements-movement and are no longer shocked by the sheer mundane or laid-jolie of his collections. That being said, it was still quite the contrast when comparing it to the other Parisian shows, who seem to have taken more inspiration from haute couture and sharp tailoring.
by Lupe Baeyens
Photography credit: Regis Colin Berthelier for Nowfashion
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