LFW AW17: Eudon Choi

SEASON after season, fashion shows offer rare insight into a designer’s development and evolution, both on a brand and a personal level.

It has been a great pleasure to watch Eudon Choi’s growth and artistry since the debut of his label in 2009. Few designers are able to successfully translate menswear techniques into womenswear with originality, exactitude and energy. But, Choi does all of this and more, collection after collection.

Choi’s AW2017 collection demonstrated his mastery of capturing movement in stiff fabrics through tailoring and creating flattering silhouettes from oversized pieces that drape across the body, rather than completely disguising it.

For one, the South Korean-born designer is simply one of the best out there when it comes to making crisp cottons look cool and wearable, not generally an easy thing.

A quick study of his second look shows Choi’s ability to use tailoring to create proportion: a slightly oversized but tailored turtleneck cotton blouse with adorable shoulder buttons and puffed sleeves tucked into grey wide-leg trousers.

Fabrics dip into and away from the body with perfection, with only ribbons, D-ring fabric belts as accessory outside of the outfit appropriate trainers.

After greys and blues, the collection transitioned into khaki, blue and orange, building upon oversized tailoring into new and interesting directions.

Variety within a cohesive concept allowed for all sorts of beautiful moments in Choi’s AW17 collection. There was the orange leather jacket with cropped black trousers and a cool knit sweater. There was the satin slip dress with the oversized mauve cape with white trainers. There were the final oversized olive duster and the puffer jackets throughout.

Special mention goes to the chunky knit jumpers that appeared on several looks, which came cropped with an exaggerated turtleneck or fully oversized with long sleeves. Like all of Choi’s styling decisions with jackets or shirts going off one shoulder, the knits were nonchalant but purposeful, adding dimension and softness where needed.

by Jessica Quillin