GLASS arrives in the heat of the day at the ornate gates of the pristine white sun-bleached compound of Borgo Egnazia in Puglia, with the bright reflection of the Adriatic as the stunning backdrop. I am struck by a sense of calm and tranquility when entering the low-lit reception area, which is aglow with soft candlelight and decorated in cool beige and white tones − just as if Kelly Hoppen had undertaken a complete makeover of the resort. It’s very classy here but not stuffy; let’s just say it’s understated and smart.
The view to the sea Borgo Egnazia
My personal “advisor” for my stay here is Katia. She gives me a warm welcome, explaining that the resort has been designed as a Puglian village, taking architectural inspiration from the local farmhouses scattered around region. The resort even has its own little church hall, clock tower and village square, where you can enjoy al fresco dining during the warm summer months. There are several immaculately appointed accommodation options: La Corte, the main hotel area, is an adult-only residence during the busy summer months; Il Borgo (the village) houses the duplexes and townhouses; and the individual villas are perfect for those wanting total privacy and each has its own private swimming pool.
Cycling in olive groves
As I walk along the resort’s cobbled stoned walkways heading towards my casetta (little house), I notice the vegetable-filled barrows and randomly strewn bicycles which help to create the village-like ambiance. The duplex casetta has a high-walled private garden filled with gently scented lemon trees and an array of outdoor furniture to enjoy the peacefulness of this exclusive accommodation. Upstairs the sunshine-filled spacious bedroom has a roof terrace with a clear view of the surrounding olive groves and across out towards the sparkling turquoise sea.
Cookery school with Rocco Levante
Borgo Egnazia offers its guests six restaurant options: I enjoy lunch at Pescheria da Vito, the seafront restaurant, which is a relaxing haven by the water with its protective billowing white curtains providing shade from the powerful midday sun. Cookery classes are available at Trattoria Mia Cucina (open kitchen) led by in-house pasta chef, Rocco Levante, where I learn how Puglian cuisine is simple in its preparation (this apparently used to be important for field labourers who needed quick and simple nourishment that was rich in energy-giving carbohydrates). Rocco explains that the local fresh produce tastes wonderful, because it is grown in the rich soil close to the salty seawater.
The golf course at the resort
The gastronomic jewel in the crown at Borgo Egnazia is the seductive dimly lit and striking Due Camini, a relaxed take on fine dining. Danilo, my waiter, was trained at the Ritz Hotel in London and the effervescent sommelier, Giuseppe, offers vineyard tours to learn about the domestically produced wines. While enjoying a fresh glass of Liveli, which is especially produced for the hotel featuring Fiano Grapes from Puglia, I start my evening meal with a rich and light Caciocavallo cheese ravioli, served against a dash of strikingly hot black pepper, which I follow with breaded skate wings cooked with delicate lemon, and finish off with a dessert plate of fragrant and refreshing almond ice cream.
Borgo swimming pool
This resort has an indulgent choice of three outdoor and one huge interior swimming pool (with water as warm as a bath), and the award-winning Vair Spa’s holistic space comprises a labyrinth of treatment rooms. Close to the resort is the San Domenico 18-hole golf course and two private beaches offering a choice of water sports. I decide to hire a bike from the hotel and take a guided cycling tour along the miles of surrounding olive groves in the warm fresh air, before arriving at Masseria Maccarone, where the proprietor, the charismatic Alessandro, takes me on an entertaining tour of his seventh-generation olive oil manufacturing plant.
Indoor swimming pool at Borgo Egnazia
This resort is seriously geared up for those who want to stay put and do nothing, although if I were eager to explore Puglia, my personal advisor Katia is on hand to give me sound advice and compile a tailor made itinerary. The joy of staying in such a cossetted environment leads me to the conclusion that while I am here, I am not going anywhere, just content to make the most of the laid back, heavenly haven of Borgo Egnazia. And I do.
by Amanda Bernstein
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