PFW SS19: Louis Vuitton

NICOLAS Ghesquière has concluded fashion month with a futuristic vision for SS19: the dawn of the space age. Referring to him as the star-man of sartorialism would be an understatement. For what reason? The French designer approaches clothing from a higher, orbiting perspective which, when viewed on earth (inside the Louvre, to be exact), has you ready and rearing to take off for another planet. Last night, that mindset manifested itself into a fresh Louis Vuitton collection, where it became apparent that the next season’s female is feeling rather galactic. Amid much modernist attire that was evidently tailored for travel, Paris Fashion week closed with force.

Travelling attire has long been a favoured style of the Vuitton woman, especially since Ghesquière started to shape her silhouette back in 2014. Four years later, and she’s soaring amongst the stars. Her SS19 ship was the Louvre, playing host to a long, intensely lit promenade that felt galactic and cinematic alike. Stepping inside and taking a seat was like strapping yourself into the mind of Stanley Kubrick, and one could confidently predict an odyssey movie was quick to start. Fortunately it did – with a quick 3, 2, 1, lift off. And so entered Ghesquière’s cosmic female entourage, sporting silhouettes of the sci-fi kind.

The collection’s standout was the sleeves. Visually billowing, their circular structures were held together by wires which communicated an infusion of the old and the new. Specifically, it was a kind of marriage between historical, high-end, Victorian fashion and contemporary, alienesque attire. Yes, Ghesquière was styling for the space age, but he was eradicating any shallow features that have stereotypically been prescribed to it. His structural half-nod to classicism gave his garments charm, but they were deemed exotic through their decoration. From graphic landscapes, to metallic mesh, to total white, a simple label of womenswear felt unfulfilled for this sort of fashion. It was a shell of armour instead, and whilst striding in it, these females clearly felt empowered.

That was Ghesquière’s intention when composing the collection – he wished to contrast a refinement of savoir-faire with the hardiness of nomadic equipment. That futuristic tale of adventure was further felt through prints and hues. Illuminated by the fluorescent lights of the Louvre, neon shades, asteroid images, and even eighties-style graphics were popping. The collection was catered to the voyager – masculine or feminine. Voluminous mini A-line dresses, box structured suits, cap-sleeves shirts, billowing coats – all forms of garments were unveiled, tailored to travel in any territory. Safe to say, this was a cultural conversation through clothing, and a rather apt end to a month of shows that have aimed to proclaim ambiguity for the upcoming season.

For a french house that is so acclaimed for historical accessories, Louis Vuitton is en route to another kind of fashioned planet with its ready-to-wear. A one way ticket to the moon might not be attainable just quite yet, but as far as Ghesquière is concerned for SS19, the street is set to be your odyssey. Star man or star designer? Evidently, the Vuitton director is embodying both. Over and out, fashion week. We’re ready for a star-studded SS19 season.

by Faye Fearon

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