Kaspar’s at The Savoy delights with first-class dishes

WHAT a thrill to head to the Savoy – could anything feel more glamorous? The quintessentially English hotel has been a West End icon for over 100 years, and it continues to shine. Adding to the air of old-school luxury is Kaspar’s, an informal yet glitzy all-day dining spot that gives the hotel a lively buzz. Specialising in fish dishes, the gorgeous black and green Art Deco dining space revolves around a seafood and champagne bar in the centre of the room, surrounded by Murano glass columns and glass lighting. It’s a great-looking space, and just the right size, too.

Kaspar’s at The Savoy

The restaurant claims to not be bound by the seasons, but, rather, inspired by them, and the intelligent menu is carefully organised to reflect this ethos. The a la carte menu is divided into four main segments: items from the seafood counter, such as oysters, caviar, crab and smoked fish; intermediate plates that include a signature lobster bisque and a pumpkin tortellini; principal dishes in the form of lovely bean and shallot croquettes or truffle risotto; and finally meat and fish cuts cooked in Kaspar’s lava stone grill. These dishes can be found on the generous set menu, served until early evening – perfect for theatregoers.

The Buffalo Milk Burrata at Kaspar'sThe Buffalo Milk Burrata at Kaspar’s

During our recent visit, we started with a couple of light salads before proceeding to curate our own dishes from the grill options. There was something thoroughly enjoyable about choosing the freshest fish (dover sole) and highest quality meat (spring lamb), and then selecting one of the “timeless sauces” on the list to accompany it (we went for a garlic and rosemary jus, and a green peppercorn). Add a couple of generously-portioned, fragrant sides – such as a truffle and chive mashed potato, or a chervil and dill cucumber salad – and you pretty much have a perfect meal on your hands. Then, add a dessert of caramelized puff pastry or Garuguette strawberries, and you’re in heaven. It’s really that simple, and Kaspar’s is brilliant for understanding this formula and delivering the goods.

Fried Mersea Oysters and Caviar at Kaspar’s

In a city that offers some of the most diverse and compelling dining options, it can often be difficult to find just the right thing for when you want that elegant yet vibrant night out. Kaspar’s offers first-class ingredients, solid cooking and a reason to dress up.

by Derby Jones

Kaspar’s at The Savoy, The Strand, London, WC2R 0EZ

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