ZOOM Rockman, star satirical cartoonist, is the newly appointed artist-in-residence at Simpson’s in the Strand, one of London’s landmark restaurants. The 19-year old, who grew up in the capital, first came to prominence a few years ago, when, at the age of 16, he became the youngest cartoonist to contribute to Private Eye. His comic strip, Skanky Pigeon, first appeared in the Beano when he was only 12, and the Evening Standard named Rockman as one of the most influential Londoners under 25. It’s hardly surprising, then, that such a precocious talent caught the eye of Simpson’s, who has given over a substantial part of its grand foyer to the work of Rockman. The illustrator’s witty, cutting images can also be found upstairs on the walls of the restaurant’s elegant and cosy Knight’s Bar.
Rockman has produced a series of six new artworks that celebrate the restaurant’s most high-profile patron, Sir Winston Churchill. In a metropolis that is immersed with new dining spots every week, it’s quite wonderful to think that Simpson’s has maintained its special presence in the West End for almost two centuries. Churchill was a big fan, visiting regularly, and Rockman’s drawings express this fondness, whether it’s Churchill playing a game of chess, or relaxing at his favourite table. Rockman has fun too: one illustration depicts Churchill with his rivals Benjamin Disraeli and William Gladstone – a sort of satirical fantasy dinner party scenario.
Your Move. Artist: Zoom Rockman.
Simpson’s was opened in 1828, starting its life as a coffee house and chess club, where gentlemen went to smoke cigars, read the papers and chat politics over a game. A couple of decades later, drinks and dining were introduced, with the noted caterer John Simpson taking the helm. It was Simpson who introduced the practice of wheeling carvery items into the dining room on silver dinner trolleys – so that chess players could be served at their table, without any interruption. The fancy trolleys still exist today and made several appearances during our recent visit. It’s a lovely touch and reason alone to visit.
The restaurant itself is a gorgeous and historic affair. A thoughtful restoration in 2017 was able to draw attention to the building’s heritage – original intricate ceilings, handsome wall panelling, crystal chandeliers, chequerboard floors. It really is quite spectacular – and in that fabulous old-school way, which is so hard to find nowadays.
Simpson’s in the Strand
Thankfully, the food is impressive too. The Bill of Fare, as the menu is sweetly named (we really could be in the 19th century), consists of excellent seafood (oysters, scallops, prawns), the Grill, the aforementioned daily Carving Trolleys, and Simpson’s Signatures. We tasted dishes that included a dressed Dorset crab, a fillet of sea trout in a beautiful lemon butter sauce, and a dense piece of fresh halibut. Puddings, that most British of institutions, obviously could not be missed at such an iconic British restaurant. We went for the baked alaska – a very rare menu item these days, that is completed at your table with flames and all – and a delicious sticky toffee pudding with burnt orange ice cream.
Baked Manx Queen Scallops at Simpson’s in the Strand.
The staff is extremely charming and definitely not from the Victorian age – a lively bunch who will take good care of you.
Salted Caramel Ganache at Simpson’s in the Strand.
Lingering in the foyer after our meal, we were able to take another look at Rockman’s astute pictures. They really do set the scene.
Victory. Artist: Zoom Rockman.
By Derby Jones
Images courtesy of Simpson’s in the Strand. Victory and Your Move copyright of Zoom Rockman.
Simpson’s in the Strand
100 Strand
London WC2R OEW
tel: 020 7420 2111
Follow Simpson’s in the Strand on Instagram.
To find out more about Zoom Rockman’s work, visit zoomrockman.com