The dining area of the May Fair Kitchen has a pleasant old-fashioned look – no exposed heating ducts and bare white walls here – fronted by a bar area where some very original cocktails, including a mildly fiery martini using wasabi purée, could engage your attention. An open kitchen, with displays of meats and fish waiting to be consumed, has busy chefs putting the final touches to your plate.
No intrusive background music to interfere with your conversation, lots of space and solicitous staff serve as the background to a newly updated menu that includes some gorgeous starters. The main menu is dominated by several steak and seafood options, which we judged tender, tasty and simply cooked – allowing for personalisation with one of the ten accompanying sauces.
Little else by way of accompaniment is necessary, as the portions are generous, but side orders included an excellent samphire and ginger, salads and some huge chips. Vegetarians have plenty of choice too. Desserts press all the right buttons: a lovely flourless chocolate cake and a pear and almond crumble with amaretto mascarpone were the ones that took our fancy. The prospect of a cheese trolley was tempting, but sadly we had no room left for the experience.
by Thea Macauley
Three courses and a glass of wine comes to around £45
May Fair Kitchen, Stratton Street, London, W1J 8LT. Tel: 44 (0)20 7915 3892