VICTORIA is shaping up to be a dining hot spot in the capital. Wild by Tart a new restaurant in Eccleston Yards from Lucy Carr-Ellison and Jemima Jones, is certainly an excellent reason to head south of the river. Set inside of a former power station, the huge site not only offers delicious, seasonally-focused dishes in its beautifully airy dining space, but also features a special bar and retail area, as well as an attached deli for those take-away cravings. It’s an impressive and exciting site, and just a few steps away from the tube station heading towards the peaceful ambiance of Belgravia – so it does feel like a fancy night out.
Wild by Tart in Victoria
Carr-Ellison and Jones made their name through their bespoke catering company, Tart London, which they founded in 2012. Feeding the famous became their thing, catering especially for the fashion industry. A food column in the Evening Standard’s weekly magazine came next, in 2016, where the pair’s enthusiasm and expertise regarding healthy, big-flavour food quickly caught on. Their recipes were published as A Love of Eating, released last year. Wild by Tart therefore seems like the next natural step – and they have certainly pulled off this great accomplishment with aplomb.
Wild by Tart in Victoria
The menu is centred around a variety of options. Appetisers consist of lovely offerings such as grilled halloumi and a pickle plate. We started with the vegetable tempura, seasoned with nigella salt, which was one of the highlights of the evening. Paper-thin batter and a crunchy kick made this dish a serious winner. Small plates, consisting of mushroom tortellini and smoked baby beetroot amongst others, were sidestepped in order to get to the main event. There are actually two main events on the menu – dishes from the charcoal grill, alongside dishes from the wood burning oven. The charred hipsi cabbage served with pickled lime dressing was simply exceptional – gorgeous, unusual flavours combined with lush textures. The octopus and lamb were also fantastic, showing off the kitchen’s commitment to high-quality, sustainably sourced produce.
Wild by Tart in Victoria
For dessert, the guilt complex won’t rear its head as the choices revolve around interesting, fresh flavours rather than gluttonous overkill. Think cardamom poached pear with cashew and turmeric crumb, and bay leaf crème brûlée. We went for the garam masala and malt ice creams, which were thoroughly unique, and showed how inventive the cooking at Wild by Tart can be, showcasing idiosyncratic ingredients and flavours.
The drinks on offer are also imaginative. We tried orange wine for the first time (delicious) and it was great to see rice milk horchata on the menu – not common for London.
As a relaxed, all-day dining space, with attentive, charming staff who make all the difference, Wild by Tart is certainly set to win the neighbourhood’s heart – and Londoners from all over will no doubt be flocking here.
by Derby Jones
Wild by Tart, 3-4 Eccleston Yards, Belgravia, London SW1W 9AZ