A NEW beginning for Louis Vuitton—Virgil Abloh’s first collection as artistic director of the menswear division used a Wizard of Oz theme to signal a shift in focus for the House, which saw the show’s entire colour palette transformed from chilly monochrome to a vibrant rainbow halfway through.
The all-white ensembles on display during the first half of the show had a freshness to their loose construction. A lack of colour placed couture craftmanship on centre stage, celebrating the exquisite tailoring and fabrics used to create the series of oversized silk shirts, sheer tops and asymmetric jackets. Abloh’s ability to marry streetwear with couture was clear to see, with hoodies, combat trousers and trainers adding an effortless edge to the collection.
Like Dorothy emerging into glorious technicolour, the second section of the show had a more vibrant energy to match its bright palette. Outfits in cherry red, turquoise and deep purple were paired with acidic high-vis accessories, holographic bags and bold, contrasting sports gloves. Further Oz elements were incorporated, with a poppy-printed bomber jacket and yellow brick road sweater featuring.
The House transformed an avenue in the gardens of Paris’s Palais Royal into a rainbow runway for the show, inviting fashion students in coloured T-shirts to line the catwalk and watch the international array of models, in a symbol of the House’s commitment to the future of fashion as well as global diversity. And if this is the future for Louis Vuitton, it certainly looks bright.
by Rachel Parker