PFWM AW19: Loewe

AFTER five years of presentation-style menswear collections, Jonathan Anderson made the leap to the runway, and that didn’t go unnoticed. An ochre fabric sculpture by Franz Erhard Walther served as the backdrop for the Spanish brand’s AW19 collection. The sculptor is known for his assembling cloth on bodies in slightly unconventional ways, exactly what Anderson makes fashionable and beloved.

His first look set the tone for the rest of the collection, cementing the brands’ leather craft. With a fabric scarf layered with a leather pouch necklace, paired of with a jacket detailed with croc-pockets yet the most remarkable piece of this eclectic look were the thigh-high unzipped calfskin leather black boots. His mission for his AW19 menswear collection: making the basics fashionable by de-fetishising them. Anderson stated that fishermen were a source of inspiration for the collection, providing an explanation for the gaucho-esque boots.

Slouchy tops balanced out the sleek proportions of the predicted must-have boots for next autumn. From long-line cardigans assembled with fabrics resembling the ribbons of maypole to comically long polo-shirts, bouncier is better.

As can be expected from a Loewe show, there was an abundance of leather and knit, as Jonathan Anderson has a knack for making the basics fashionable. Semi-precious stones are scattered across cable-knit jumpers, as well as some rather erotic drawings from Keith Vaughan a blown-up Marilyn Monroe even made an appearance.

It seems to be a trend for each brand to give the suit an update, Anderson took inspiration from his womenswear collection and reintroduced the tuxedo-style suit, with contrasting lapels worn over an oversized shirt.

The collection featured some quirky flower-inspired hats, yet the pin-striped shirt with fur lining took first place when it came to the most peculiar piece we want to own.

An experimentation with fabrics and proportions, Loewe impressed with its debut runway show.

by Lupe Baeyens