VOLUME is key in the Valentino SS18 couture collection. Oversized balloons of fabric in vibrant yellows, blues and purples open the show. Belted with tight ribbons and draping bows, sophisticated jackets with partially pleated hems sets a luxurious tone from the off. Styled with avant-garde feathered headpieces, a focus on femininity is clear. Oversized ruffles are paired with paper-bag trousers surround the models with excess fabric, but is tailored to emphasise the female form.
Reflecting the regal environment, long pastel gloves assist with elongating the body, as do the ruffles. An off-white floral print is soon a feature, layered onto rich tones of mat and metallic fabrics. Pierpaolo Piccioli’s choice in emphasising simplicity is obvious, as the choices of colour-blocking garments demands focus to shift to the masterfully draped garment cuts. A sharp influx of minimal garments rapidly changes direction to over-the-top ruffles and scallop hemlines. A show stopping outfit in vermillion and beige stunned due to its simplistic but dramatic cut.
Looks came out in small groups, each with its one statement, while in keeping with the collection’s cohesion. As use of black becomes prominent. However it is soon replaced by gold and again by floral; all staying true to the perfected draping. The original floral print has been altered, immersing the look in more colour and details to make each print its own.
Extravagant tulle in tones to match the model’s skin are in sharp contrast to clashing sash belts in white and lilac. In the looks leading up to the finale, elegance is demanded. Floor-length gowns, still with volume in focus, appear at the end of the show with a dramatic bondi blue cape-style dress and a swirling headpiece being the final look.
by Todd Burns
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