WHEN it comes to Demna Gvasalia it is hard to predict what he will do next. His time so far at Balenciaga has seen him revolutionise the French fashion house to the point that the branding, silhouettes and designs are instantly recognisable.
You know it’s Balenciaga. Fact is, it is his Balenciaga.
What sets Gvasalia apart from other designers is his understanding of culture and our evolution of taste. Instead of running away from embracing this change, he drives straight into it providing us with what we want before we know we want it.
This season, the Georgian designer decided to invite guests to the Théâtre de Chatelet for a screening. An invitation to embrace cinematography is what many assumed, but instead, the first half of the spring-summer 2022 collection hinted at the beginning of a series of role reversals.
On the screen was a photocall on a classic Hollywood-esque red carpet, an old-fashioned film premiere in other words. A group of Balenciaga’s favourite models, team members and friends of the house, such as Elliot Page, Offset and Lewis Hamilton, were captured wearing the SS22 collection.
A combination of streetwear, tailoring and evening-wear was adjusted through a variety of proportions going from ultra-slim to disproportionately oversized. From gowns to jeans to bodysuits and platform shoes, it was a beautiful mostly black fantasy.
Beyond the aesthetics, there was a strong commitment to responsible production that was evident through the use of upcycled denim, leather and embroidery, as well as a step forward into material innovation which saw plant-based leather introduced to the Balenciaga material roster.
With the premiere event becoming the show itself, Gvasalia once again turned the tables on his audience. However, it didn’t stop there. From the red carpet, the models were ushered into the cinema to take their seats for the cartoon short film titled The Simpsons/Balenciaga.
It explored the boundaries that overlap culture, entertainment and technology while simultaneously bringing some fun into fashion week. It was a real crowd-pleaser.
Though The Simpsons video may seem a little out of place, it was rather a stroke of genius by Gvasalia once again. Both are heritage brands and both are at the forefront of their respective fields. This was an embrace of pop culture that wasn’t served with irony but rather was a masterclass in advertising – and, an entertaining one at that.
Racking up over one and a half million views on YouTube already it proved how easy it really is to allow the wider public to get access into your brand without the need for endless influencer strategies and gifting. As I said before, genius.
It was a collection and a show that cemented Gvasalia’s place as a leader of his industry. The 64 looks delved into all style preferences creating a multitude of pieces that ensured at least one item would be of your liking.
That, combined with The Simpsons, illustrated vividly how the designer has democratised luxury fashion by bringing Balenciaga to the masses and then simplifying it.
It doesn’t have to be complicated, just ask Demna Gvasalia, he just made Anna Wintour watch The Simpsons.
by Imogen Clark