PFW SS19: Chanel

CHANEL’s Karl Lagerfeld never does things by halves. Alongside running the creative direction of Fendi and his eponymous fashion brand, the fashion genius is well-known for executing a phenomenal spectacle for every Chanel show, making it probably the most anticipated show of the season — for every season. Previously transforming the Grand Palais into a supermarket, an airport and the riverside boulevards along the Seine, it comes at absolutely no surprise that once again, he has managed to transform the palatial glass-and-metal structure into a whole other world: this SS19, Chanel brings us to the beach. Yes, the beach, complete with white sand, undulating waves and azure skies.

Models strutted barefoot along La Plage de Chanel – how else would you walk on a sandy beach? –with cute slip-on plastic mules in hand. The collection opened with classic Chanel tweed, this season in candy-coloured iterations of bright magenta pink, dusky purple, vibrant blue, and rainbow. You might be wondering, who wears tweed to the beach? Well, the Chanel girl does, but she does so cleverly and stylishly – as a vest worn over light cotton shirts and lace ensembles, or a jacket over skin-tight bodysuits and sexy two-piece bikinis.

Another star of the show were the beachball-shaped purses that accompanied many a vividly hued, umbrella-print ensemble. Perhaps, Lagerfeld never forgets to inject a sense of wittiness in every Chanel collection to remind us not to take fashion so seriously. Highly notable too, was the overt embrace of logomania, as Lagerfeld embellished most looks with the letters CHANEL that came in the form of bejewelled chain belt (a hark back to the ‘90s?), pearl and diamante necklaces, or as detailing emblazoned on lapels and caps.

What is perhaps the greatest thing about this collection is that there just might be something for everyone. Not a fan of rainbow tweed or poppy beach-inspired dresses? Not to worry. The normally maximalist Lagerfeld also kept minimalists in mind this time, with a slew of monochrome, more structural ensembles and toned-down suiting. Not to mention the many quietly elegant, floaty black evening pieces that closed the show, which would look just as in place on the red carpet as they would at a beach wedding.

The 83-look collection was strong and coherent, laden with the overwhelming sense that while the Chanel girl is playful and enjoys life, she still remains graceful, chic and elegant in every step she takes. The collection was the quintessential Chanel distilled. If anything, it has proven that despite the dramatic changes the fashion world has seen in the recent years, Karl Lagerfeld is still its reigning king.

by Kay Leong

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