HAVING taken a sabbatical last season, Virgil Abloh made a dynamic return to Paris Fashion Week for the showcasing of Off-White’s AW20 collection. Having declared streetwear dead in 2020, the in-demand founder explored deconstructed chic. “The ethos of Off-White is it’s not just clothes,” he explained. “My inspiration and motivation is more the humanity level.”
Abloh is no stranger to creating elaborate dresses, having designed Hailey Bieber’s wedding gown last year, and opened the show with Bella Hadid sauntering down the runway in a de-constructed monochromatic ensemble. Adhering to Off-White’s latest collaboration, both the opening and closing looks comprised Arc’teryx jackets with a cascading contrast of pleated ruffles making up the outfit’s bottom halves.
Yolanda Hadid marked her first time joining her daughters on the runway, dressed in a white tailored jacket emblazoned with a graffiti motif and sleek black trousers. Explaining the necessity to feature the whole female Hadid clan on the runway, Abloh noted that “they’re like the equal of haute couture in fashion.”
Carolyn Murphy reprised ‘90s Gucci nostalgia in a cut-out slinky white dress, cinched with a gold hip-slung chain-belt.
Experimenting with print and texture, the collection featured camouflage, cow print and houndstooth to incorporate diversity and innovation, while an array of pencil skirts, cream coloured trench coats and tulle-inspired outfits comprised the key looks.
Continuing to yield a breath of fresh air over the Italian fashion label, Abloh did not disappoint, opting for an infusion of reminiscence and luxury for a strong and refined approach to AW20.
by Cara Jenkins