TEETERING on the edge between fashion and art, Comme des Garçons showcased another incredibly avant-garde AW18 collection at PFW. Rei Kawakubo, founder of CdG, has never been one to shy away from challenging the definition of fashion, continually producing imaginative collections in bold silhouettes and materials.
Kawakubo’s initial inspiration for the collection is the exploration of camp, visibly notable through flamboyant materials, avant-garde styling and ridiculous garment shape. A monochromatic colour scheme opens the show but is soon interrupted by a dominating influx of rainbow colours. An air of Japanese pop-culture – noted in previous Comme des Garçons collections – is present throughout as ruffled petticoats and pastel colours are synonymous with the fashion of Harajuku. Print is used in abundance; geometric, polka dots and floral all compete for attention whilst working in harmony to create a graphic aesthetic.
Deconstructed knitwear is scattered within select looks, with a broken depiction of Betty Boop featuring on one outfit. A loosely uniformed aesthetic of A-line silhouettes contributes to multiple looks but is overshadowed by further dramatic shapes. Graphic floral motifs are a repetitive sight, with one outfit resembling a life-sized flower and another a shroud or roses. An important element throughout the collection is texture, with an array of lightweight and heavy materials set against detailed lace and sequins with the final outfit incorporating layers of voluminous tuile, complete with a tiered wig – bringing an end to another artistic collection by CdG.
by Todd Burns