REMINISCENT of his childhood memories, Chanel’s creative director Karl Lagerfeld recreated the woodland scenery surrounding the country estate in the north of Hamburg, where he grew up. Located in the Grand Palais, models open the AW18 collection by walking over a thick carpet of leaves overshadowed by moss-strewn trees. An all-black start was soon superseded by an earthier palette that continued for the collection’s entirety, accompanied by bold accent colours and nature-inspired prints.
Of course, the overindulgent use of Chanel’s iconic tweed came as no surprise but was greeted with a warm welcome. Dappled checked blazers with matching skirts camouflage within the leafy environment, evolving through various colour schemes of navy, beige and red. The metallic detailing complemented the sheened leather, creating depth through reflected light and shadow.
An abundance of textured materials in various weights alongside multiple techniques of fabric manipulation, such as pleating and ruffling, amplified the depth further. Although an extremely accessible collection, we can’t ignore the collection’s exclusivity as its embellishment and hoards of jewellery underpins Chanel’s luxury ethos.
The overwhelming whimsical ambience is juxtaposed by city-chic tailoring that dominates the collection. In true Chanel style, perfected dress cuts allow for an overall air of elegance – met with flirtatious proportions and contemporary shapes in contrast to the sophistication of the collection. Appealing to popular trends, quilted puffers and handkerchief-hem hoodies suggest the influence of sportswear, further evoking a sense of youth.
An ‘80s inspiration is also notable, portrayed through exaggerated shoulders and undertones of power dressing. Ignoring the brightly coloured gloves that have accessorised the looks throughout, the collection concluded with a return to an all-black aesthetic with our attention shifting to focus on the impressive pattern cutting and the romantic silhouettes, a reflection of the fairytale forest atmosphere.
by Todd Burns
Leave a Reply
You must be logged in to post a comment.