NYFW SS24: Coach

COACH’s spring-summer 2024 collection which made its debut during New York Fashion Week reimagined its heritage from the perspective of the current generation.

It celebrated the brand’s design codes and archival language in founding one’s unique style and individual expression.

The runway show revealed a collection of tailored silhouettes in Coach’s classic materials which had been conceptualized to ooze an attitude of youth and unconventionality as well as commemorate the beauty of vintage pieces.

With the use of artisanal techniques of hand-distressing on regenerative cotton and denim staples, the notion of luxury and its prominence in perfection is challenged as the garments celebrate the beauty that accompanies pre-loved clothing and the value they gain with wear.

Coach’s programme (Re)Loved was exceptionally influential this season. The initiative focuses on the exploration of circular craft by inspecting, designing and learning with a top priority being waste reduction during the creative process.

The spring-summer 2024 collection introduced these themes by working with repurposed leather and denim made of deadstock and pre-loved textiles. The slip dresses featured also utilized repurposed materials with lace and fabric sourced from past Coach productions.

Regenerative and recycled fabrics were used throughout alongside the slipdress’ use of botanical dyes sourced from marigolds, black walnut, logwood, indigo and more.

Coach Creative Director Stuart Vevers’ vision developed further with sheer, raw-cut slip dresses and worn-and-restored knitwear.

The collection also featured collegiate t-shirts and sweatclothes with a printed graphic from the Upper East Side steakhouse, Donohue’s in an attempt to reimagine its iconography as a sporty symbol.

Colourful patent sneakers, jelly flats and quilted iterations of the Coach Shapes and renowned Coach Tabby bag brought to the collection a sense of playfulness and expression which made for an amusing contrast to the heritage garments displayed.

Leather versions of day-to-day bag silhouettes including bowling bags and oversized basket totes were also explored this season.

As for the production of the show, the brand debuted its collection at the New York Public Library’s Celeste Bartos Forum. The customized deìcor in Coach’s archival hues made for an elaborate backdrop which thoughtfully juxtaposed the collection’s youthful attitude.

With a seating plan that gave all guests a front-row view, Vevers emphasised the audience’s position in partaking in Coach’s story.

Spring is a tribute to the way today’s generation is writing their own story through fashion, and the New York Public Library instinctually felt like the perfect backdrop to unveil this next chapter.

“As I reflect on the past ten years, I wanted the collection to feel personal, too, and to capture the New York fashion archetypes that define my imagination and memories of what the city is, then and now.

The collection distils these memories and translates them through Coach’s enduring fashion language—the essential design and quality that inspires people to express themselves freely as they are.” — Stuart Vevers

by Nicole Pereira

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