OFF to the races? Escada has got you covered. The brand celebrates its 40th Anniversary this year, so decided to jump into the hectic schedule of New York Fashion Week for the first time to reveal the SS19 collection. What did it display? An eighties empire – empowering and pretty alike. Central Park proved a fitting neighbour for the setting of the show, for the maze shaped runway was composed with moss. With fresh creative direction under Niall Sloan, the eccentric woman of the disco decade was modernised to the max.
Sloan opened the show with a saturated statement: a two piece skirt suit with striking hues of yellow and pink. Appropriate for the heated season? Yes – for blazer sleeves were rushed above elbows and skirt structure was kept to a soft, thin layer. What followed was a powerful proclamation of glamour – and as expressed by Sloan in his show notes, it was inspired by Pretty Woman. So of course, the wish to embody Julia Roberts’ iconic persona is now possible. Thanks Sloan!
And as per Escada, prints soon took over. Logo mania lay at their forefront. Sloan has designed a new emblem for the house – a golden heart that was adapted from a vintage perfume bottle by the brand. It was emblazoned across clothes as a recurring motif – draping upon belts for accessory, sewn into rings on handbags, and most prominently, fronting many fabrics. Clearly, Sloan has a desire to state a celebration of his house – and it was as optimistic as could be.
Equestrian illusions raced along the runway, too. That riding thread comes naturally with the label – its founders, Margaretha and Wolfgang, saw a horse named Escada upon photographing an early collection, and found influence in its evident energy for the name of their company. And so 40 years later, Sloan decided to revisit that grounding through a contemporary lens for SS19. Archival tweeds constructed tailored suits fit for fleeting, paddock jackets were given a luxury upgrade through quilted cashmere silk, and leather skirts were bonded with racing stripes. This was sportswear at its most sublime status – lively equestrianism.
An audacious aesthetic has long lay at the forefront of Escada. Confident femininity could not be more clear, and under Niall Sloan’s new creative direction, the brand’s 40th Anniversary celebrated that with force. A racetrack runway, to be precise. We’re ready to participate – the SS19 season is looking to be a pretty pleasant ride.
by Faye Fearon
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