NYFW AW19: Tom Ford

ALTERNATING between the softness of crepe de chine, chiffon and silk jersey, and the soberity of their menswear suits, Tom Ford characterises his latest runway collection by its tailoring and boyishness. Although last season was patently feminine, the same mood of relaxed sensuality and romanticism is retained in this collection with the transcendence and interchangeability of the womenswear inspiring the menswear in its soft hues as much as the menswear influencing the womenswear.

A continuation of the spirit of his previous collection, the designer seeks to make clothes that enhance the lives of the wearers. His resolve to create clothes that are simple, gentle and beautiful is flawlessly achieved.

Synthesised by colour and inherent lyricism, Tom Ford has made a collection in which you can feel attractive and secure. We are made reminiscent of the 18th century and transported into the mind of designer, Charles James, as the runway flourished faded shades of dove grey, pale blue, sugar almond pink, plum and caramel with the additions of rich brown and deep burgundy tones. Reflecting the harsh climate of today, sensual flesh tones bring an essence of humanity – a warmth we all seek – and with black comes security. A colour familiar to and favoured by Tom Ford, black frames and creates silhouettes unmatchable by any other colours.

The tenor of passion and amore is embodied in the details: the juxtaposition between the chains across the simple and elegant gowns, the romance of the fake fur wide-brimmed fedoras and the dusty tones of satin, velvet and crystal of the platform shoes that anchor the silhouettes. Select models added an air of mystery and drama with warm gradient-lensed sunglasses. To minimise the distractions from the simplicity and refinery of the clothes, jewellery was kept to a minimum, only allowing the adornment of scarves to add to the quixotic beauty of the collection.

Unpretentious, understated and unapologetic, Tom Ford delivered a show fitting of our times.

by Robyn Ngan