AFTER a digression in Paris, Proenza Schouler is once again back New York for their AW19 collection reminding us of their genius. Sensual and sophisticated, it’s no coincidence that McCollough and Hernandez’s designs are always highly anticipated.
Admitting that they are in rather a redefining experimental state, Proenza Schouler appears to be following a more pragmatic trajectory. Rather than being experimental in a way that is avant-garde or boundary-pushing, the brand is curbing their more daring desires in order to streamline and homogenise their vision. This began last season when they sought inspiration from Americanisms, in particular, denim. With no intention of becoming of a denim label, they reverted back to their signature style this season.
High-concept twists on wardrobe essentials, McCollough and Hernandez created a refreshing and modern collection: think netted negative space, square-toe boots, armpit cut-outs, leather accents and revamped trenches.
Reimagined trench coats with front panels and off-shoulder or wrap accents to create a scarf-like illusion were stand-out pieces. To join their outwear were contrast sleeved belted leather jackets and asymmetric-hemmed blazers. Oversized and accented, yet completely wearable. A muted, neutral palette of stone greys, blacks, mustards, navies, and olives was utilised; colours familiar to Proenza Schouler, the collection was quintessential and focused.
Paying detailed attention to silhouettes, the result was artisanal and at times, androgynous, befitting of the current shift within fashion. The collection was polished and tailored, volumes and dimensions were played with: oversized jackets placed over flyaway flaps and single panels. The dresses acted as an almost juxtaposition with their somewhat uniformity, all sleek, elegant and controlled.
Well-executed and well-designed, as always, Proenza Schouler brought us a signature collection worthy of praise.
by Robyn Ngan