Dolce and Gabbana’s lavish SS16 menswear smorgasbord was evidence that, to Domenico and Stefano at least, Sicily is a cultural reference point that just keeps on giving. Far from the duo’s last Sicilian-centred sortie, this season the design house moved on from that making a progression to a graceful and silky chinosoire theme. We can’t say we were exactly expecting that, but the exchange between the more demure aspects and the flurry of signature adorned D&G decorations was a plot twist that couldn’t be ignored.
To make this clear, the house concocted 108 creations that relied heavily on more restrained florals and other more languorous aesthetic choices that signalled a renewed austerity policy has been taken into consideration this season.
Perhaps this repositioning sits somewhere in the wake of the design duo’s rather controversial remarks that were aired earlier this year, sparking fairly substantial outrage from one of the brand’s most susceptible sectors of clientele.
Nevertheless, that refreshing floral print was still drenched on yards upon yards of sumptuous silks so D&G is still as loud and proud as ever.
One thing that the brand has always had going for them is this ability to get people talking and also, of course, their ability to fashion monumentally fabulous clothing. SS16 made this obvious. The suits this season were gorgeously put together as usual, elsewhere so were the more boyish sports jacket ensembles and finally the off duty pajama ensembles. Accentuating the latter made this collection stick out a little more as being more considered.
By the time the fleshed-out parade of clothing reached its finale ,the print featuring olive vines was a nice Italianate touch and when that met the silky kimono suits we were just a little thrown but not in the least bit unsatisfied. This was a collection of chic contradictions that as aforementioned, was all about giving the people what they want, striking outfits, and getting them talking, the “opulent” culture clash vision should take care of that one.
by Liam Feltham
Images courtesy of Style.com