CONTRASTS and extremes were the main focus of the Prada menswear AW20 collection. Delving into the realm of the experimental, Prada was careful to toe the line of convention, subtly combining conflicting textures like reflective fabrics and fur, as well as mixing a monochrome colour palette with neon greens and reds. An Italian take on British teddy boy style, expect to see classic menswear pieces and tailoring, like pea coats and leather brogues.
Playfully conceptual, the collection experiments with the concept of teddy boy style, even blending with elements of the teddy girl. Ruffled high-neck shirts and considerably more feminine colours, like pale purple and yellows, cannot be missed. Moving ever-closer to gender fluidity with their brand, Miuccia Prada demonstrates the power of the unexpected. The collection is also very trend-focused, featuring the hottest pieces of the season, including boxy oversized blazers and bold graphic prints.
Known for their unique approach to accessories, Prada again invokes classic menswear accessory trends. Monochrome satchel bags and 1970s style rectangular glasses stand out as strongest pieces, with some of the duffle bags and slim laptop bags, although classic, missing the mark, especially considering what we have seen from Prada with previous menswear collections the past couple of years.
Overall, the collection created some excitement and some disappointment. A significantly weaker collection in comparison to the almost immaculate SS20, although somewhat conceptual, Miuccia Prada seemed to be keeping it slightly too safe this time around.
by Emma Hart