MFW SS24: Tod’s

SET within the walls of the Laboratori Scala Ansaldo, the iconic Italian brand Tod’s unveiled its spring-summer 2024 collection. Initially founded by Filippo Della Valle as a luxury shoe manufacturing company, the brand is eternally dedicated to producing the highest quality leather goods.

Considered a trailblazer in contemporary fashion, the industry recognises the brand for its timelessness and savoir-faire. Walter Chiapponi, creative director of Tod’s, set the seasonal presentation in the Laboratori Scala Ansaldo to immerse the audience in the mise en scène of Don Carlos, the tragic production focusing on the Price of Asturia.

Showcasing Italian artistry in setting, silhouettes and cuts, the show acted as a perfect platform for promoting Italian cultural arts.

Calling upon 1990s minimalist dress codes, Chiapponi focuses on creating elegant, refined wardrobe essentials for the contemporary Tod’s cognoscenti. Suits have been deconstructed and tailored to create a more feminine silhouette by adjusting sharp lines and cuts – a common theme found throughout the collection.

With an emphasis on sleek simplicity, Chiapponi opted for a mostly neutral colour palette, yet bursts of chartreuse, burnt oranges and soft blues appear through shoes, knit details and more.

Additionally, aligning this collection with past seasonal offerings, a variety of light, sheer, and adaptable fabrics are utilised – viscose, linen gauze, transparent wool and nappa leather. The assortment of fabrics and finishes exemplifies fluidity, versatility and flexibility – all intrinsic components of Tod’s design approach.

Meanwhile, utility and practicality are addressed through multi-purpose belts and beautifully crafted overcoats.  Contrasting fluidity with perfectly pleated skirts, sturdy trench coats with cinched dresses and nude tones with vibrant counterparts, the collection illustrates the brand’s impressive allure.

Being particularly renowned for their bags and shoes, Tod’s has reinterpreted some of its classic silhouettes to usher the brand into the modern-day. The Di Bag appears reimagined with seamless edges and stretched, new proportions, whereas the new T Timeless bags are now exhibited in embossed leather.

Welcoming a new phase of life in his design journey, Chiapponi showcased ballerina flats, mules, woven sandals and the traditional male moccasin – another display of the designer’s infallible expertise.

By intertwining masculinity with femininity and fluidity with angular silhouettes, the collection reinforces the importance of heritage and community to the well-adored Italian brand.

by Sophie Richardson

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