PLUSH and pink was the setting for Alessandro Michele’s SS17 Gucci offering, in a showy show that flirted with all the trimmings of a Wes Anderson-ian fairytale. As the star of the collection, the clothing took this up ten notches, with Gucci evidently giving Michele even more freedom of expression. No wonder, following a track record since his appointment as creative director which has replaced Kering’s eyeballs with dollar signs. For the sake of a little more creative adventure in the industry, this is wonderfully welcome, but Michele need not go so off the blush carpet wall when we already know he is a designer with inspiring vision.
Presenting creations that will no doubt tickle fashion bones, especially those of his loyal fans and those that want to buy into the new Gucci phenomena, Michele over-emphasised the heavy outfits decked out in ruffles, old smoky lace, unabashed pattern and print, smart use of Gucci hallmarks, Animalia, a little chinoiserie chic and green tights. Whilst utterly whimsical, all of these elements delivered more bombastically than ever only amounted to more conflict than curated flair.
Nevertheless, breaking down the basics done best, the girly Gucci suit in deep bruised hues with vibrant ribbon trim, the plumes of romantic and riveting material on gorgeous gowns, the modern lustre of metallic met with fine soft silk, suede and gauzy velvet, left an inevitable silver lining. Accessories too from headscarf to head-dominating sunnies were very effective to this end.
Bags and shoes detached from some of the collection’s calamitous looks were fabulously conceived. Alessandro proving still that accessories and up is his territory and his alone at Gucci. No doubt what he produced in Milan was some of the best that’ll come out of the city so we are still amongst those loyal fans.
by Livia Feltham
Images courtesy of Gucci
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