DONATELLA Versace brought us an homage to her vintage Versace style – sealed with a safety pin box for an invitation – in addition to a nouveau spin on grunge. Set to the soundtrack of Courtney Love and Kurt Cobain, a storm of neons, plaids and t-shirt accompanied the signature dresses we all associate with Versace.
Although the identity of Versace has been redefined and changed since the passing of Gianni, the safety pin motif and bondage dresses have been a classic connection we make to the brand. Twenty-five years ago safety pins entered the sartorial patois when Elizabeth Hurley wore the double-strapped Versace dress embellished with the tool, rarely being associated with anything else and having become a must-have accessory ever since. Whilst this AW19 hailed back to the overt sex appeal of that era, the collection has been muted with the addition of tweed, suiting, power-layering and neons.
Almost every colour of the rainbow was represented through its neon form – an embellished green satin dress matched with electric blue stockings, red stilettos and a highlighter yellow bag was just one of the looks that stole the show. Pink turtlenecks, orange slinky dresses and cyan shirts were just a few additions admitted to the Versace roster. Unconventional but a breath of a fresh air.
Clashing prints and statement coats were another highlight (besides the neons, of course). Printed tights, blouses, dresses and scarves paraded down the runway; breaking the rule that dictates you should only wear one print at a time. Juxtaposing the grunge and bondage aspects of the collection, Versace presents us duality.
It wouldn’t be a Versace show without the ooze of unapologetic sex appeal. A suggestive ode to the 1992 Miss S&M collection, the runway sported looks of similar silhouettes and sensuality. The strappy bustiers were revived, complete with gold buckles – hallmarks of the Versace legacy – and embellished shoes. Revealing dresses with wrap skirts, created the ultimate seductress. A collision between the grunge, neon and bondage elements of the show created the ultimate looks fit for a heroine: she can be intrepid, she can be unconventional, she can be dangerous, but no one will ever consider her boring.
A fashion house that proves to be revolutionary every time they present at Fashion Week, Versace’s AW19 gives us the ultimate inspiration for the upcoming season. We have all been seduced by Donatella’s genius as she gave us an insight into her version of a femme fatale.
by Robyn Ngan