TAKING the place of Gucci, MFW kicked off with a spectacular start last night, as Moncler showcased Moncler Genius, an “eight cell” event debuting collaborative collections with various designers. Collections with Pierpaolo Piccioli, Simone Rocha and Craig Green were but a few of the designer collaborations to feature in the event. With eight rooms in the event, each collection had a room dedicated to its debut along with its own ambience, correlating with the aesthetic of the collection. The aim of Moncler Genius is to appeal to the modern generation, as social media drops and current consumer habits are having an affect on traditional fashion shows and shopping.
Held in Cell One was Moncler 1 Pierpaolo Picciolo. Experimenting with morphing natural silhouettes, Picciolo dramatically changed the human form through A-Line capes. Constructed using Moncler’s glossy nylon, the collection has a uniformed silhouette. Each look flowing from shoulder to floor in one smooth line, given structure by the classic quilting Moncler is famed for. Openings for arms and large cut-outs reveal layers beneath resulting in an avant-garde look, that wouldn’t be out of place in a galaxy far, far away.
Cell Two brought a more accessible collection. Moncler 2 1952 saw Moncler’s more playful side, with bold colours and inviting textures. Soft corduroys and rib-knit jumpers create a ‘70s vibe with a streetwear twist. Sweaters with enlarged Moncler logos and graphic placement prints suggests an inspiration from childrenswear. The collection would, obviously, be incomplete without a number of shining puffers in two-tone colours.
An abundance of print dominated the Moncler 3 Grenoble range. There was no holding back on the use of various florals, checks and Fair Isle prints that donned each garment. Gradually evolving colours shift from teal greens and reds to baby pinks and orange. As a brand that prides itself on producing high-fashion but practical sportswear, the Grenoble range marries the two perfectly. Luscious fur boots and earmuffs appeals to the fashionista is all of us and when given the practical aspect, it gives us all the more reason to love it.
In among the rocky terrain of, that closely resembles crumpled up paper, Moncler debut Moncler 4 Simone Rocha. Collaborating with Rocha, they showcased a dark collection dictated by the black colour scheme. Oriental floral motifs and the unexpected use of baby pink brings an overwhelming sense of femininity and to a dark collection, amplified further by manipulated ruffling and baby doll silhouettes. The juxtaposition between light and dark becomes synonymous with cosplay fashion, commonly seen in Harajuku, Tokyo and makes for a very Kawaii collection.
Submerging into darkness as we enter Cell Five, as the only lights shine upon the Moncler 5 Craig Green collaborative collection. The collection, which sent shockwaves through the fashion industry when it first debut in 2017, kept in cohesion with its initial season with a monochromatic aesthetic focusing on intense silhouette distortion. Extreme oversizing of garments detracts from the human form, seemingly leaving an empty shell behind. Removing the body from visibility, attention diverts to the garment shapes, allowing us to appreciate the artistry that produced the collection.
Fabric manipulation has never looked so good; Cell 6 introduced us to the Moncler 6 Nior Kei Ninomiya collection. Adapting upon the classic Moncler quilting, the collection showcases innovative ways of decorative quilting. The show-stopping looks a knitted scarf and jumper, made from the signature high-shine nylon.
Moncler 7 Fragment Hiroshi Fujiwara returns from the avant-garde to something more saleable, with no compromise on design. Showing a selection of knitted jumpers, flannel shirts and worker jeans our focus is on the jackets. No surprise that the majority of jackets in the range are glossy-nylon puffers with the odd gillet, but Moncler printed their brand name in the vintage font along with an allusive slogan onto the back of the jackets appealing to the streetwear trends that dominate today’s fashion
The last, but not least, the Moncler 8 Palm Angels collection couldn’t be more with the trend. Serious late ‘90s to early ‘00s inspirations have shaped the collection, with micro sunglasses and flat caps bringing back flashbacks of the time. Streetwear is the life and soul of the collection, with tracksuit trousers and slogan t-shirts creating an urban aesthetic. The collection uses the high-shine nylon and quilting in excess, just to remind us once again, that this is a Moncler collection.
by Todd Burns
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