Calvin Klein Collection went full stud ahead in Milan this season and had some really resplendent metallic trimmings to boot, what more could you really want from a menswear collection. Doing things his way for AW16, Italo Zucchelli stuck to roid-rage tailoring, with shoulder structures, thick sleeves and other cuts would fit the beefy-est of jocks like a glove, but packaged it all up in gold, copper and platinum lamé.
This particularly sparky choice became a pretty strong and effective statement as it was drawn out and minimalism and puffed up paninaro styles overpowered the rest of the collection. The power-dressing vibes were therefore even stronger this time round at Calvin Klein and one has to think that it all must have something to do with its position in the market. A brand that is the single most recognisable producer of men’s underwear on the market, you see, has a hard time easing in even the slightest touch of effeminate soft edges, it would seem.
You can’t mark Klein down for this however, it has its place and other brands have theirs. It was just hard to shake the feeling that the design team were so unyieldingly set in their ways this season or even blinkered in some respects that nothing came between their mood board and their Calvin’s.
The indomitable puffa-jacket in brilliant gold lamé was just too confident not to love however and it really made the collection, the suits did to some extent as well, as slick as ever. The question now is whether Zucchelli’s slick moves will keep Klein’s menswear as universally appealing as it’s undies.
by Liam Feltham
Images courtesy of Calvin Klein