THE SCENE is set on the fourth floor of Belstaff House in Mayfair, as the brand brings their AW19 collection “home”. Creative Director Sean Lehnhardt-Moore’s first collection AW19: Great British Roots reflects his admiration for the brands heritage, ensuring Belstaff‘s future is inspired by its legacy.
The installation consists of four packing crates, each a backdrop for a different aspect of the new collection. The first, entitled Outwards Bound highlights Belstaff’s affiliation with the great outdoors and their history as known outfitters of yesteryear’s greatest explorers. The spirit transpires in the clothing: shearling and knitted layers hidden beneath waterproof, stone-washed chestnut canvas and dry waxed cotton, a new fabric for the brand. The iconic jackets are displayed in front of a wall of tumbling leaves, as if they are ready to begin a new adventure. The new Belstaff red is introduced here with a burning red neon poker on display, highlighting the new red layers of clothing that bring a spirit of adventure to the iconic outerwear.
The second crate contains the Dockland collection, which draws inspiration from the brand’s historic connection with the military. Colours of dark indigo and navy dominate, with wool Melton the fabric of focus. Undeniable militaristic elements are revealed as you peruse the collection, with double breasted coats and p-coat’s presented among a mise en scène of rope, moorings and nettings echoing Belstaff’s historic association with the Royal Navy.
Thick-ribbed cream woollen jumpers paired with dark wash denims bring a modern, wearable feel to the heritage-influenced outerwear pieces. A technical jacket of navy blue combines wool Melton with nylon to create a new hybrid garment, influenced by designing methods of the past and the present, reinforcing Belstaff’s reputation as an inventive brand that uses and creates the finest of materials for its clothing.
From its genesis, Belstaff has provided for drivers, aviators and motorcyclists. Its industrial beginnings are reflected in every aspect of the collection. A stunning vintage British Norton motorcycle sits front and centre. Colours of black and deep berry take precedence, and heavy mechanical accents are softened by wearable fabrics, such as shearling collars and knitted scarves. The womenswear features a black leather biking cape, as well as a checked fabric cape, emphasising wearability and practicality whilst still remaining stylish in a timeless fashion.
The final scene focuses on functionality. Slates are carefully placed on the ground beneath the clothing and a gentle smokiness fills the air around this crate, evokes a sense of Belstaff’s original home of Stoke-on-Trent. The industrial colour palette of black, brown and charcoal receives a modern update in form, with biker jackets that incorporate both black and brown – a wearable update to the classic black – and wool Melton coats that have corduroy detailing and detachable shearling collars. Thick black woollen jumpers that differ to the cream used throughout the installation bring a different feel to the garments, a toughness and durability to the outerwear.
The four compass points of the collection illustrate the durability of Belstaff. Firmly rooted in British heritage as outfitters to the great aeronauts and explorers of the past, Belstaff’s AW19 collection caters to its present customer who craves adventure in the everyday – and clothing that can come along for the ride.
by Lucy May McCracken
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