CLOTHES should make women feel strong, sexy and empowered. Who better to capture the magic of all three elements than veteran designer, Julien Macdonald. Known by LFW regulars affectionately as the King of Glamour, Macdonald upheld his coveted title with a stunning debut of his SS20, Julien x Gabriela, at Southwark Cathedral. A fashion guru to the stars (Jennifer Lopez, Kylie Jenner, Gwen Stefani and Madonna, to name a few) Macdonald sought inspiration for this collection from the essence of womanhood. To do so, he collaborated with his friend and muse, Gabriela Gonzalez, to produce an awe-inspiring spring collection that celebrated the beauty of real women.Â
First to storm the catwalk was renowned Brazilian model and former Victoria Secret Angel, Izabel Goulart, who wore an intricately embroidered black catsuit embellished with feathered sleeves and shaped with a sculpting corset. Sporting loose lengthy curls and smoky eyes, Goulart embodied the underlying theme of empowerment seamlessly. And while she brilliantly represented feminine strength, this is not to say Macdonald completely avoided incorporating any sense of sensuality. In fact, the dark mesh look proved there is sweet balance between subtle sexiness and a pop of power.
Each look following the opener served as further proof Macdonald has only improved designing abilities over the last three decades. A master of fine detail-work, he put an emphasis on embroidery and delicate feathering, which added to the feminine beauty of each look and created ethereal silhouettes.
With regards to the colour palette of the collection, Macdonald did what he does best and stayed within the realm of shades of black and off-white. Notably, there were several pastel pieces that sparingly graced the runway. But even those select few had the signature Macdonald shimmer, making them equally as show-stopping.
And while the majority of looks were catered towards women, Macdonald’s SS20 collection featured several mens items. Most of the male models wore mini shawl tied carefully to one side. While revealing, they were also visually masterful with exquisite tailoring.
As the show came to an end, Julien Macdonald must have known one thing for certain: his SS20 with Gabriela Gonzalez would no doubt be sought after for anyone who’s anyone. To see this only had to take a glimpse at the audience, which was full to the brim with the elite of the fashion world who were loving every moment of the showcase.
And honestly, who wouldn’t be?
by Maria Noyen