This season, Paul Smith was feeling nostalgic. Returning to his youth and the beginnings of his career as a designer, Smith delivered a collection influenced by the 1970s, motifs and techniques used in his designs since the beginning in the ‘70s and ‘80s. One of these looks was a humorous print and appliques of apple cores, also translated into necklaces on long chains, among other jewellery, which we’ve seen plenty throughout the show, all referring back to the fruit theme.
The AW16 show, held at the Royal College of Physicians, was carried out in a colour scheme of earthy orangey to pinkish hues (very 1970s), contrasted by an array of black and navy. Deconstructed paisley, seemingly randomly ‘thrown’ on the garments, and psychedelic florals (again, both very ‘70s) were the main prints in the collection. The floral print also expressed a theme of New Romance set by the designer, apparent also in shirts with frilled hems of sleeves or collars.
The models walked down the runway in pointy ankle shoes on heels or loafers with a big velvet bow against a big screen showing a short film where the clothes from the AW16 collection were the stars. Smith also included a lot of tailoring, synonymous with the brand, as a black trouser suit with the Paul Smith red stripe opened the show which then moved onto classic shift dresses made more special by different prints, appliques or texture contrasts and elegant coats, occasionally completed by big fur collars hugging the shoulders.
by Sara Hesikova
Images courtesy of Paul Smith