It’s a London thing – James Long

You may well have noticed that girls have ruled the world as of late. That always goes without saying when it comes to the unveiling of SS15’s newest shapes and stylings, which naturally take over our fashion focus subsequent to September’s glittering international fashion weeks. In London, undeniably the home of directional and emergent ideas about what menswear can be, we are now getting ready for menswear to take over in January of the refreshing new year and to offer up that special something.

Glass decided to take it upon itself to reach out to one of London’s new superstars of menswear, the widely lauded James Long, to gain a little LC:M insider insight while we’re at it. Long quickly became our first choice when we decided to resort to menswear for a different angle purely because he is one of only a handful of designers that have the most to offer to our beloved capital city’s male fashion scene, and you better believe it. The designer soon shared with us his fascinating understanding of what it is about London that makes the most stylish man and what it takes to go from RCA graduate to the pioneer of such a booming sector of home-grown fashion.

 

JAMES LONG PORTRAIT 1So James, it’s now been more than four months since your SS15 show. Glass was in attendance, and personally we absolutely loved it. We couldn’t help but pick up on lax buoyancy, your unmistakable craftsmanship of course, and all of that colour colour colour. It was quite far from significantly more “dark” leather and knit fusions, would you agree? If so, is James Long going in different directions in the foreseeable future?
I think colour is a huge part of a collection. If the colours are bright or dark the same amount of consideration goes into it. AW14 was half bright half dark, SS14 had some very colourful sections but I think I always celebrate and love colour in all my collections. I think colour really depends on the overall mood of the collection.

And we have to ask, how was the response? Smiles all round we’re sure.
The response to the SS15 collection was positive and the denim was very successful in particular. I like to have an element of surprise in each collection. There were elements of continuity, new techniques and a new direction in shapes.

Following on from that, could you possibly give us any hints about where you’ll be going for AW15?
I’m not sure of the direction yet, I am gathering research at the moment. I’m doing the bags in Italy this week  – they are our starting point this season. There is a very exciting new technique that we are planning to use.

You previously had quite a few ties with the British Fashion Council, how important do you think they are to British Fashion, be it womenswear or menswear?
James Long is an independent now. The British Fashion Council have been a great support with initiatives such as Newgen Men and Fashion Forward. I received the first ever awards for both initiatives and it was exciting to be the first one. The MAN show with Fashion East was the initiative that launched my career and prepared me for the Newgen and Fashion Forward awards.

It seems they have been fairly supportive in goading your potential since your early beginnings, from your progression through the MAN and NEWGEN sponsorship schemes, describe how you felt throughout that journey?
When I did the MAN show there wasn’t a Newgen Men or Fashion Forward. The support was just for womenswear. It was exciting to be part of something that was new and uncharted. It was a very different situation to the one that exists now at LC:M. It was great when the British Fashion Council set up the London Showrooms as it meant there was a great place to sell the collections Internationally.

Soon after it was the BFC, in fact, that awarded you with the Fashion Forward Sponsorship. Was this a crucial stepping-stone to the success that you are currently contending with?                               Being awarded the Fashion Forward sponsorship was great and it coincided with the first London Collections: Men. It really allows you to grow your business and develop as a designer.

A ‘new’ menswear designer has definitely emerged on the London scene over the past few years, one who bites the bullet just that little bit more, while still creating stellar clothing for the most stylish of fashion-concious males. Would you count yourself as one of those designers?
I think each season we deal with a new set of goals, a fresh outlook is what makes a collection exciting. Fashion is an outlet for ideas and if these ideas are exaggerated on a catwalk and commercialised for the show room then great, I think everyone shows their collection how they see fit. You have to be excited yourself otherwise it’s boring.

That being said, menswear has definitely changed, but the kind of man who appreciates good clothes hasn’t. What kind of man do you design for?
I design for a cross-section of men, but I aim to design something that is desirable, special and from an independent British designer. I want my clothes to be the favourite thing in your wardrobe that you feel mega in.

Talking of your “man”, what style staples do you cherish that you like to see recur each season, despite a clear evolution from the previous to the next?
My staples are my punk black and white stripe mohair jumpers, sheepskin coats and all my oversized sports sweaters.

Fashion design’s newest high-rollers are cropping up after studying at a variety of different arts institutes in the UK, from CSM to LCF and many more. What did you get from The Royal College of Art that was different?
The Royal College of Art has Ike Rust as the Head of Menswear, he is an extraordinary tutor who will direct, believe in and push students who are willing to work at their talent. You are able to indulge in your ideas and thoughts for two years which is a great luxury that really gets you deep into your vision. I found the course very tough at times, but also incredibly rewarding and I had loads of fun while at the Royal College Of Art.

While education often broadens boundaries and opens eyes, what was the first moment in your life, sartorial or not, that opened your eyes to fashion for men?
As a teenager I used to save up to get the train to Camden with my sister to buy awful clothes and we were fascinated with all the people there. I got hooked on London and the fashion.

Finally, where do you see menswear going in the future as LC:M becomes bigger and more alluring to the fashion pack each season?
I think London is the most interesting place for new talent in menswear in the world, mostly down to the great nurturing that goes on

And is this where you would like to see it going?
As long as LC:M continues to support new designers the outcome can only be positive.

The million dollar question now James, where do you see James Long in 10 years?
In 10 years, I hope to be living the dream!

by Liam Feltham

Images courtesy of James Long

About The Author

Glass Online fashion writer

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