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Hotel Chantelle, New York’s famed restaurant and late-night spot, has opened its first international outpost: Hotel Chantelle London. Tucked away on unassuming Orchard St, hidden behind Selfridges, the sky-high venue sits atop Bonbonniere nightclub – which is pretty convenient considering how easy it is to slip into the party spirit after a couple of Chantelle’s super-charged cocktails.he venue echoes the hedonistic spirit of its raucous Manhattan sister with a late-night liqueur license and a 3am bedtime at the weekend.
However, when we visited for breakfast there was little evidence of the raucous night before, and the setting was pleasantly serene. Sliding glass doors fill the space with light, while greenery grows over the walls – a calming, urban garden that’s a world away from the bustling shopping mecca below. The walls display a host of artworks, including a menacing interpretation of Kate Moss by New York street artist Bradley Theodore.
We visited for Chantelle’s Jazz Brunch, which we understand is somewhat of a boozy breakfast institution across the pond. As the name suggests, the five-hour service is accompanied by a live Jazz performance, curated by New York’s own Dandy Wellington. Seth Levine is the man behind the menu, which marries classic American fare with a playful French influence – although it’s fair to say that most dishes lean further towards the indulgent decadence of the US.
When restaurants place such a firm focus on a fun atmosphere, it’s easy for the food to be placed on the back burner. That is not the case here. At Chantelle’s, the brilliantly whimsical presentation is supported by rich flavours and innovative pairings: sausage breakfast pops (yes, the name is gross, but shouldn’t put you off) arrive suspended from a washing line, and married with a maple-syrup sauce that, impressively, isn’t sickly, while a sparklingly crisp cucumber gazpacho is sprinkled with delicate flowers and served alongside the smoothest, richest goat’s cheese bruschetta.
The main courses – this is a two-course brunch situation – have clearly been portioned in-line with their American counterparts: this is not one for the calorie-conscious. The steak and eggs is a gargantuan plate of perfectly crisp potatoes and buttery-soft steak: a simple classic, executed brilliantly. The lobster benedict is similarly huge, but while the overly thick, glutinous hollandaise may hit the spot across the pond, its consistency seems overly thick, and smothers the perfectly poached eggs and delicate seafood beneath.
Thankfully, our dangerously strong Bloody Mary cut through the claggy texture capably. Infact, a note on the Marys – don’t attempt a second if you are susceptible to impromptu partying – you may just find yourself still sipping into the early hours of Monday morning.
by Roberta Lister
Hotel Chantelle, 23 Orchard Street, London, W1H 6HL
Tel: +44 (0) 20729 92522
Email: reservations@hotelchantelle.co.uk