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French designer Alexis Mabille enjoys playing with gender distinctions in clothing. While Mabille now has become well known for his breathtaking haute couture collections, there is a natural sense of tailoring and proportion at the heart of even his more avant garde designs.
Born in Lyon, Mabille completed a three-year course at the prestigious Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne. With his talent for couture recognised early on, Mabille graduated early and went on to work for Ungaro, Nina Ricci, and eventually Dior, where he worked for several years.
In 2005, Mabille launched his eponymous brand creating unisex designs under his now signature bow-tie logo. By 2008, he showed at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week for the first time. In 2010, Alexis Mabille gained full Haute Couture status, a rare award for such a young designer.
More recently, Mabille has opened two new boutiques in Paris with plans for further expansion in the coming seasons. His brand now provides a full range of prêt-à -porter and haute couture for both women and men.
Glass caught up with Alexis Mabille after he unveiled his latest collection in July at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week.
You studied at the prestigious Ecole de la chambre syndicale de la couture parisienne. How did this experience shape your point of view as a designer?

I did the Chambre Syndicale a long time ago to improve my technique. In terms of style and drawings I had a lot of ideas from the beginning of my career, but the atelier technical work was so good at that time in the school.


In your opinion, what is the value of haute couture for the fashion industry in the 21st century?
It is a laboratory of ideas and techniques, to push the work as far as possible without limits of time. The idea is really to express your mind ideas as a painting and to show your perception of the prevailing atmosphere.
What are the similarities and differences between your approach to haute couture and your approach to prêt-à -porter?

The way I’m inspired is almost the same, the difference is more about the technique and categories of clothes I do for each collection. For ready to wear it is like re-working a wardrobe every season and thinking each piece separately before styling and putting together as a whole collection. It is a full concept of my personal view on clothes starting from production until how worn by clients.
For couture it is a pure expression of my mood, desire, inspiration.
You have worked for Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, and Lancôme. What was it like to work for these major design houses?

It was amazing to know and understand the rules and complex system of this industry. I was very passionate about and honoured to be part of the team of Galliano, Slimane and Pilatti and feel the energy around them.


Why did you decide to launch your own label in 2005?

I really wanted it, and had ideas to share, so I decided to change all my secure life in a big group to attack the market and to show what I love to do fashion.

 What challenges have you faced in setting up your own lines?
 There were a lot of challenges in terms of communication, finance and political crossing to arrive where I am now, but the journey is exciting. It’s a real business and all those challenges help to move to the next step and bring business forward.

You design womenswear, menswear, and accessories, which is very diverse for a young designer. Do you find it difficult to create new looks for all of these ranges?

No, I do it because I wanted that and because in the early beginnings of my company was about unisex clothes so it is normal to keep the fresh energy from the first days. But I have to admit that the workload has increased and I don’t sleep so much as a result. Ha ha …
Are there any similarities between your aesthetic for womenswear vs menswear?

Yes of course, even if it is different, the fabrics are similar and the sense and the attitude of the style is the same – quite playful, but on men it appears more eccentric. And of course the bow-tie is similar as the shirts and jackets.
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What inspires you?

A lot of things inspire me … Talent, strong personalities and images inspire me a lot and make me react
by Jessica Quillin
Alexis Mabelle’s website is here
Find him on facebook and follow him on twitter @Alexis_Mabille