ON a recent rainy spring evening, Glass arrived in Leeds to visit Home – a fine dining spot in the centre of town that was launched in 2017 by Masterchef semi-finalist Elizabeth Cottam and Michelin-starred Head Chef Mark Owens. In its short history, the restaurant has become a popular haunt for locals looking for somewhere sophisticated and upscale to dine.
Through a properly discreet entrance on the high street – look out, you might miss it – and up a flight of stairs, we were greeted by a charming team. Guests are hosted momentarily in the low-key bar area before being taken into the dining room. It is after you enter this space, with its sleek interiors and airy ambiance, that you feel as though you’re about to sit down to something serious. And the menu served by Home is certainly that: a straight-up conceptual affair that is focused on ingredients and refined pairings.
Lamb and Asparagus. Courtesy of: Home Restaurant, Leeds
The restaurant has become known for its ‘The Season’ menu, whereby each month sees the launch of a new tasting menu that concentrates on local ingredients and seasonal flavours that are pertinent to that particular time of the year. Through ten or so dishes, guests are taken on a journey that shows off British flavours and beautiful presentation.
During our visit, we started with a nice selection of snacks – savoury macarons that were light as a feather. We then tried some lovely vegetable preparations including fresh white asparagus with an accompanying creamy mousse, and a truly delicious potato souffle. The halibut with cabbage and dill was a particular highlight – perfectly cooked fish in a bright sauce. The hand-dived scallops served with parsley oil proved that the restaurant has a flair for seafood. Other items on April’s menu include lamb, duck and a white tea and verbena parfait. Later on in the spring, expect to see a nice french onion tart in May, and an orange and cardamom cake in June.
Duck and Artichokes. Courtesy of: Home Restaurant, Leeds
As with this kind of cooking, there is such a strong preoccupation on the technical details of the dish that it often feels like an exercise in showing off the kitchen’s talent. When the dish comes out well, it’s a great and exciting moment. But when the dish is unspectacular – such as our chocolate tart, or even the bread that was served – there is no where for the food to hide. Add to that very small portions, and you have a menu that can sometimes feel like a list of snacks.
Dining at Home. Courtesy of: Home Restaurant, Leeds
Home offers a fancy night out, with some very fine flavours and impeccable service by a terrific team. As the dining room was buzzing during our visit, they are clearly making the locals very happy.
By Derby Jones
Home, 16/17 Kirkgate, Leeds, LS1 6BY
Tel: 0113 430 0161
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