Glass talks to Turkish designer Ceren Ocak about her eponymous brand

WITHIN the vibrant city of Istanbul, there is a wealth of young designers waiting to venture out and into the wardrobes of an international crowd. Not only, and quite literally, being the meeting point of where the West meets the East, Turkey’s second largest city also holds a fashion week embued with optimistic colours and woven through with undeniable talent.

One of Istanbul’s secret weapons is homegrown designer, Ceren Ocak. Originally going down the financial route by completing a degree in business administration, she decided to change paths and study fashion design at Istanbul’s La Salle International Academy. It was from here that she joined Zeki Triko’s team for many years equipping her with knowledge and understanding of how to complete full collections and run a brand.

In June 2013, the designer left to launch her eponymous label, releasing a noteworthy debut collection. Since then, Ceren Ocak has become synonymous for her triumphant use of leather, pleated asymmetry and sensual cut-outs, making her brand one to watch.

Ceren Ocak Portrait Ceren Ocak

Having studied a degree in business, what influenced your decision to move to becoming a designer?
It was my childhood dream to become a designer. When I was studying business administration, I decided that this was not what I wanted to do, the only thing I really wanted was to be a designer, then I decided to pursue my dream and study design.

Though an unconventional start to a design career, how do you think that the business degree helped you?
While creating a brand, you need a good grasp of all details. What I learned while studying business administration was very helpful in this regard. Having knowledge about all the processes from calculating the costs of products to making profit and loss statements has made it very easy for me to follow the processes.

Ceren Ocak Ceren Ocak SS22

Ceren Ocak Ceren Ocak SS22

Leaving Zeki Triko in 2013 and starting your own label, what was your biggest obstacle facing this new venture?
When I left, my biggest obstacle was the production. I didn’t know where to start yet. I thought it would be more convenient to start without setting up my own workshop. I spent a long time for researching and finding the right manufacturer.

Your debut collection had a heavy focus on leather. What initially drew you to this material? What were the difficulties in transforming this stereotypically masculine fabric into something very feminine?
On the contrary, I think that leather is a more feminine material. It is a difficult material that requires careful handling. When used correctly, the results obtained are quite satisfactory for me. I can’t stop using it because I can achieve the forms I want more easily.

Ceren Ocak Ceren Ocak SS22

Ceren Ocak Ceren Ocak SS22

How do you think that your brand has evolved? What was influenced your change in aesthetic?
Together with the changing world, we are all undergoing changes. I also think that my brand is gradually maturing and calming down.

In my first collections, I was playing on the patterns having slightly more difficult forms. But now, with the popularisation of street fashion and the effects of the pandemic, it has become important for all of us having every product we buy more practical and usable. I started to turn towards the collections where there are more wearable products without giving up the touches of design.

A lot of your looks play with dimensions and layering. How do you discover these new proportions? Do you experiment a lot?
It comes up with an idea, but we can say that it is proceeding experimentally. After the draft is created and the product samples are ready, the ideas take form a little bit more and are added to the final version.

The last two years have been difficult for everyone, especially navigating their work within new guidelines. How has this affected the brand?

The period during the pandemic was quite challenging. But we were able to continue decisively by providing the right working conditions. Not being able to make physical presentations and the inability of the people who are new to my brand to see the products closely made me quite worried at first.

We have all turned towards to the digital world more in this period. Contrary to what I thought, I reached larger masses thanks to the digital presentations.

Ceren Ocak Ceren Ocak SS22

Ceren Ocak Ceren Ocak SS22

Ceren Ocak Ceren Ocak SS22

How does Istanbul influence your outlook on fashion? What parts of culture feed into the clothes?
Istanbul is a fast-paced city that lives non-stop and 24/7. The city’s chaos and cosmopolitanism are having an impact on my collection rather than its cultural aspects.

Who would you like to see wearing Ceren Ocak?
Bella Hadid and Kendall Jenner.

How do you want the women who wear your clothes to feel?
Sexy and powerful.

by Imogen Clark