Glass reviews Savage Garden Rooftop Bar, DoubleTree by Hilton, Tower Bridge

THE choice of rooftop bars in London are increasing, but they don’t all have the same perks as Savage Garden.

Looking out from the soaring rooftop, I see a meandering river Thames playfully snaking through the medieval structures of the Tower of London. The view of London’s contrasting cityscape is framed for all to enjoy from the 12th floor of the DoubleTree by Hilton in Tower Hill. The view is clear without the distraction of other high rises.

The Savage Garden interior

When it comes to cocktail bars, there are two types of people: the James Bond types who always order their go-to cocktail, and those who browse the specials or ask for a recommendation. I am both of these people, so I sit in the extravagant bar browsing the menu faced with a large cocktail dilemma. I know I’m in the hands of master mixologists, so it’s tempting to order my favorite cocktail – a dirty gin martini – because so few do it right, but after some serious thought, I fought the urge and shifted my attention to the signature cocktails list.

At first glance, the signature cocktails seem to adopt a dark, almost satanic theme, with names like Evil Eye and Wild Poison jumping out. After some careful browsing I decide to start with something tame so I order the Savage Spritz, which I’m told is the perfect aperitif.

The Savage Spritz cocktail

As a spritz should be, the cocktail is light on the palette with a pleasant fruity finish. Sloe gin paired with peach, hops bitters and a generous lashing of champagne makes indeed makes it a fine aperitif however, I question the savageness of the spritz as its far more elegant than savage. Although dangerously moreish, I know there’s more to explore.

With the Savage Spritz igniting my confidence, I knew I had to order something with more edge. The menu has a somewhat dark undertone to it so I walk down its dark path and eye up the Devil’s Advocate. Olmeca Blanco tequila with pink grapefruit, lemon, blackcurrant finished with fresh sage didn’t sound very devilish but regardless I order it with blind hope.

The Devil’s Advocate cocktail

Looking around I soak in the sight of city types, friends and couples sipping on their drinks when all of a sudden a flame coming from the bar catches my attention. A bartender continued to blow torch something with a smile on his face as if he were finishing off a work of art. A drink with what looked like two devils horns made its way to my table and it suddenly dawned on me. I’m in for a real treat. The fiery red horns are in fact two red hot chillies slung onto the side of the glass with charred ends. Fully aware the chilli is just garnish, I decide to take a nibble followed by a heroic swig. The Devil’s Advocate is sweet and sharp – nowhere near as scary as its appearance.

Savage Garden certainly has a classy charm to it. The drinks arrive in a theatrical manner with each cocktail dressed in a different outfit, and the bar area is effortless and smart. To my surprise the food menu is much more than nibbles and bar snacks but instead offers full decedent plates and sharing dishes.

The miso aubergine burger

My guest indulged on the charred octopus while I chose the burrata. I did no research on the food menu but these were two things I least expected to see. Pleasantly surprised by our starters we decide to share the honey miso aubergine burger which comes in a purple bun  made of beetroot. The Japanese flavours of miso aubergine were again, a total surprise and suddenly I felt guilty for expecting such little from a cocktail bar. It’s clear that Savage Garden want their guests to enjoy everything so why stop at the cocktails?

With the bar set high for cocktails I take the ultimate dive and order the Evil Eye to finish with. As I put in my order the waitress warms me “it’s strong but good”. That comment may have scared someone else off but suddenly I felt that the whole evening was building up to this last drink.

The Evil Eye stared me straight in the face. It was a dark black ice sphere floating green tonic and a dangerous mixture of spirits.  Herradura tequila, Martini Ambrato vermouth, Luxardo Bitter Bianco and Jägermeister to be precise. I had no idea what made the ominous black ice ball black, but nevertheless I take it very seriously. At a glance the cocktail looks more like a poisonous potion which should be labelled “drink with caution”, so I follow my instinct and take a careful sip. My initial thoughts are rude. I wince and look at the menu again to consider another order when suddenly the flavour settles on my tongue. The blend of all the spirits make the Evil Eye very hard to figure out, but after two sips I became enchanted. What a way to end the evening.

I took three things away with me that evening. Savage Gardens is one of the few cocktail bars in London where you can truly enjoy your drinks alongside delicious food. Secondly, the view is unbeatable and lastly, the Evil Eye is the dark secret waiting to be found.

by Katrina Mirpuri

Savage Garden 12th Floor, Doubtletree by Hilton Hotel London, Tower of London, 7 Pepys Street, London EC3N 4AF

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Glass Music Editor

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