NIGHT has fallen on the exposed slopes of St Moritz’s Corvatsch mountain and ahead of us a short stretch of piste is illuminated by spotlights before a sharp right turn leads off seemingly into darkness. With ski poles primed and stars sparkling in the skies overhead, a ear-piercing, guttural scream suddenly reverberates off the icy peaks around us. Yet far from a cause for panic, this adrenalin-spiking sound emanates from the lungs of our guide Othmar; a galvanising battle cry ahead of an exhilarating 2.6 mile blue-to-red run that delivers us – via a swift stop for gluhwein halfway down – down to the base below
Exterior of the Carlton St Moritz
A headhunter and actor in his former life, Othmar is now the resident outdoor butler the Carlton Hotel St Moritz – a decadent five-star pile set on a steep slope that offers stunning views over the frozen lake in this storied Swiss town. Tasked with enhancing guests’ experience in the mountains, his amiable demeanour and deep knowledge of the mountains assists us with everything from identifying the region’s flora and fauna to assembling itineraries (including Friday night’s after-dark skiing excursion) and handing out flasks of mulled wine on a horse-drawn sledge ride through the neighbouring forest (“It’s tea,” he assures us with a wink). As Switzerland’s only outdoor butler, Othmar has also been known to take guests for mountain-top sunrises, forest picnics and heli-skiing, and is an authority on picturesque Alpine proposals.
It’s a novel extra – one of many elevated touches that characterise a stay at the Carlton Hotel St Moritz. Revamped in 2007, it has been transformed with interior designer Carlo Rampazzi taking influence from Russian tsars to put a flamboyant stamp on the property with sumptuous fabrics in a warm, bright palette that characterises its 60 suites and common areas. Each generously proportioned room offers commanding views over the town’s lake and surrounding peaks – which are also the star attraction on the sun terrace, which provides a fairy-tale setting for an afternoon tea.
Afternoon tea at the Carlton St Moritz
Yet St Moritz’s magic starts long before arrival in the town, with train transfers from Zurich including a ride on the Glacier Express, which winds through stunning Unesco world heritage-approved views that included the beautiful, six-arched Landwasser Viaduct. After checking in, a short walk into town reveals St Moritz at its most charming. I linger at the outdoor ice rink – which becomes a hive of activity at the weekend – before passing by a host of ritzy boutiques on Via Serlas en route to a gallery dedicated to the work of 19th-century Italian painter and St Moritz resident Giovanni Segantini, whose moving Alpine triptych alone justifies the entry fee.
Later in the day Othmar walks us up to the viewing platform at the Cresta Run. This daredevil skeleton toboggan run with British origins sees participants hurl themselves down a natural ice run at speeds that can reach 40mph. It’s one of the only runs of its kind in the world, although it certainly isn’t the only reason winter-sports enthusiasts head to St Moritz. The surrounding area makes for fantastic skiing with 155 kilometres of well-groomed slopes, eight kilometres and 24 lifts. And at the Carlton Hotel St Moritz, guests will find a well-stocked ski and boot room as well as private transfers to the Corviglia Cable Car, with an early start recommended to access the pristine slopes before the crowds.
The Spa at the Carlton St Moritz
After retreating from the mountain and removing my boots with minimal grace but a healthy glow, I head to the spa. Here, in addition to a vast range of available treatments that span full-body massages and facials to body sculpting and thalassotherapy, the chance to while away time in the expansive sauna and heated outdoor pool helps revive mind and body.
Equally luxuriant is the menu at the hotel’s Michelin-starred Da Vittorio restaurant. Featuring inventive takes on Italian classics from the Lombardy region that shift according to the season, highlights include handmade paccheri pasta, veal cutlets and a superlative tarte tatin, whose memory will stay with me forever. Elsewhere, the decadent dining room at Romanoff – complete with crystal chandeliers and opulent drapes – provides an elegant spot for the hotel’s comprehensive breakfast buffet.
The Grand suite at the Carlton St Moritz
While the inevitable farewell comes with a heavy heart, any end-of-holiday blues are swiftly dispelled with the prospect of a return journey to Zurich on the Glacier Express, which provides an extended opportunity to revel in this Alpine dreamland and plot a return visit.
by Ben Olsen
Three nights B&B accommodation at Carlton Hotel St Moritz costs from £1,242 per person booked through The Oxford Ski Company, based on two people sharing a room. Price includes return economy Swiss flights and a daily 100CHF food & beverage credit per adult. The Swiss Travel pass offers unlimited travel on consecutive days throughout the rail, bus and boat Swiss Travel System network and costs from £171;