Glass enjoys honest Indian fine dining at Flora Indica

INDIAN cuisine is everywhere in London, but not all of it is authentic, and some of it is far too overpriced. The demand for trendy Indian dining is higher than ever, just look at the queues outside Dishoom. 

Flora Indica is situated in west London’s swanky end of South Kensington, so it’s no surprise that it boasts grand interiors and a sense of allure. The first thing you’ll see is a full-sized telephone box that stands by the front door, and the more you look around, the more the quirks appear. 

The downstairs dining area

Flora Indica gets its name from a book which was written on the subject of plants of British India written by Sir Joesph Hooker. Following in line with its history, Flora Indica takes inspiration from its botanical roots and applies the theme subtly across the menu.

It is especially present in their impressive gin menu. Instead of opting for the usual chilled beer, I ordered myself a Hayman’s Old Tom gin with tonic. My guest went for the Flora Indica Amber Ale, which is brewed locally at Portobello Brewery.

In some scenarios, an à la carte menu can be overwhelming, but in this case, it is necessary. The menu caters for all dietary requirements, and I was pleased to see a handful of vegan options which I know are also being appreciated by many others. 

The small plates boast a mixture of Indian staples along with slightly more innovative dishes, and the Artichoke Papdi Chaat steals the attention for the most interesting thing on the menu. Instead of the usual crispy fried flour pieces, they use thinly sliced pieces of fried artichoke which work perfectly as a crunchy replacement. Not that it matters, but it also has much more of a nutritional benefit.

My guest enjoyed a tandoori lamb chop which arrived well-done and coated in a  garam masala seasoning. The presentation of our food fit in line with what you’d expect from a fine-dining establishment, however, they don’t go over the top with decoration, and portion sizes are on the generous side. 

By the time starters had finished, the restaurant was almost at full capacity. Many who’d just arrived opted for cocktails before dinner. Flora Indica is quite easily the kind of place where you can visit for a few drinks and share small plates amongst a group.

Poppyseed and Red Leicester Cheese Naan 

For mains, I ordered the Paneer Kofta which came served in an indulgent creamy sauce. The kofta itself was made from a mixture of paneer, artichoke and baby spinach. To accompany the dish I enjoyed some fresh garlic naan and a side of Achari tender stem broccoli which was coated in a picked sour cream paste. 

The rich botanicals in my gin, cut through the subtle spice and paired beautifully with the food. 

On the other end of the table, a bowl of monkfish and prawn curry set off mouthwatering aromas. The seafood swam in a thick Bengali style malaicurry sauce which my guest mopped up with her poppyseed and red Leicester cheese naan. This dish is by far the most expensive thing on the menu, but if you’re a seafood fan you won’t be disappointed. 

Changing gear completely, we finished with dessert which came in the form of beetroot halwa and seasonal berries. Traditionally halwa is made from carrots, but the beetroot’s sweetness gave a new perspective on the classic sweet dish, leaving us pleasantly surprised. 

Flora Indica’s casual approach to fine-dining is honest and trustworthy. The food is authentic with minimal gimmicks, and the subtle twists on classic dishes will leave you craving it again or even encouraged to try something new in your own kitchen. If you’re in the city and you’re tempted to go an Indian chain restaurant, think again and take a trip to South Kensington. 

by Katrina Mirpuri

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Glass Music Editor

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