Glass enjoys cocktails, small plates and art at The Last Talisman, Bermondsey

WHEN a restaurant has good a cocktail bar, you’ll feel the buzz as soon as you step in. When I entered The Last Talisman, I spotted a few lone drinkers at the bar, along with larger groups scattered across the restaurant floor. It was only 6pm, but the place was lively. 

A cloudy looking drink topped with a bright red chilli crossed my eyeline. It looked like a Picante, but it was far more sinister judging by the reaction of the drinker. I bookmarked it in my mind, knowing I had to taste it. 

Bermondsey Street has had an impressive facelift over the years. It was once famous for its wool trade and leather tanneries, hence the industrially large buildings, but it now functions as a post-work foodie hangout offering endless eateries and bars.

Artwork from Maxim

The food and interiors at The Last Talisman are heavily inspired by East Asia, and its modern Shangri-La theme comes across as relaxed and chic.

Art lovers will be thrilled to discover pieces from the artist Maxim, who is famously known as a member of The Prodigy decorating the back walls of the restaurant. 

If you’re just there for the drinks, you should still be tempted to dabble in some small plates as they work perfectly as snacky bites alongside cocktails. For a more food-focused visit, the menu is ideal for mass ordering and mixing and matching. 

Cocktails are categorised into sections judged on character and strength. I began my evening with The Last Punch which used Velvet Falernum, a drop of absinthe, peach liqueur, hibiscus syrup, pineapple and citrus juice. My guest went for a Banoffee Old Fashioned. Both cocktails were filed under the ‘with a kick’ section and promised exactly that. 

Bao bun

Similarly, the food is neatly categorised into sections of snacks, skewers, sides and sweets. Food favourites such as bao buns, Korean fried chicken and prawn tempura are obvious choices, however, the grilled cheese is the stand out choice if you’re after something slightly less conventional.

Instead of toasted bread, the dish offers two slices of fried sponge tofu which mimics the airy, light texture of toast. It works as the perfect casing for melted cheese and will have you both confused and impressed at the same time. 

The skewers section is dominated by an assortment of grill meats, all of which have their own unique seasoning. The British Lamb option, which is priced at a fair £4.20, is served with a peanut sauce, cucumber, pickled, onion and coriander. The vegetarian grilled mushroom option comes with teriyaki, tempura balls and micro shiso. 

Yuzu cheesecake

If you’ve indulged in a number of small plates, you may not be interested in dessert, but it’s worth knowing that there are only two options on the menu in favour of quality over quantity.

The cheesecake comes slightly deconstructed with a crunchy vanilla meringue, yuzu curd and gel, rich cheesecake filling, burnt butter oat biscuits and sansho pepper.

It may sound slightly forced with the Asian fusion, however, it is deliciously light with the right balance of flavours. 

The Last Talisman is the ideal location for a casual dinner with a touch of style. With most of the small plates averaging at the £4.5 mark, you’re guaranteed some fantastic food and drink without the catastrophic bill.

by Katrina Mirpuri

More information at The Last Talisman