Frank Sorbier once again proves that he is the artisan poète of haute couture, a showman. With a backdrop of a towering mechanical straw figure, his seasonal reflection begins with Gulliver’s Travels – beyond the thrilling adventures, it is the convergence of different civilisations that inspires the couturier. Thus the collection is aptly entitled Voyages.
From one imaginary country to the next, Sorbier’s models sauntered and pondered down the catwalk in varying silhouettes. Jacquard fit-and-flare dresses, seductive lingerie and multi-layered handkerchief hems were but a few of the pieces for us to feast our eyes upon. Colour palettes were infinite, fabrics pleated, pin-tucked and draped, and prints were hand-painted – all of this made for an exuberant display of expert craftsmanship and artistry.
It wouldn’t feel quite right if a theatrical display was not part of the show, and so Sorbier delivered, but in a more subdued and thoughtful manner (calculating) – models glided down the checkered catwalk, pausing to interact with the giant straw figure who moved just as gracefully, perhaps an embodiment of Gulliver himself, or even Sorbier. All in all, the collection played like a song with strong hooks and catchy riffs that are sometimes unpredictable but satisfying.
by Roxy Mirshahi