WITH A desire to remodel what the fashion industry stands for, Copenhagen Fashion Week inaugurated its autumn/winter 2023 celebration by setting high sustainable standards unmatched by other cities. Whether that’s through certified materials, circular productions, or zero-waste practices, designers were challenged to create collections that met at least 18 requirements.
Of course, sustainability was already a primary value for all, which also inspired the most standout theme of the season: nature.
Earthy tones of beige, dirt brown, and sky grey were at the forefront of each collection, often accentuated by signature prints mimicking the nordic land. Yet perhaps a prominent feature of Copenhagen Fashion Week was the utterly Scandinavian tailoring through variation of suits and layers. Designed for the next winter season but offered as an inspiration to get through the cold months, each garment was instilled with a polished and natural practicality that will soon be the centrepiece of everyone’s closet.
Minimalist brand Aeron opened Copenhagen Fashion Week with a softness that didn’t go unnoticed. In collaboration with Danish artist Marie Norgaard Nielsen, Aeron staged her ‘Oracle’ art installation at the centrepiece of the show. Models walked into the semi-transparent spiral offering soft light shadows that invited self-discovery.
The clothes were sleek and sophisticated, with neutral hues of beige and brown accented with turquoise. Aeron’s desire to layer knitwear with a zero-waste approach provided an elevated feel aimed to celebrate nature, no matter its form.
The fluctuation of Copenhagen’s winter weather – where the days are dark, short, and the sun can surprise you as quickly as the rain – was the inspiration behind Rabens Saloner latest collection. A moody palette of midnight blues, cobblestones, and wet grass accentuated draped dresses and patchworked nylon jackets. There was a sense of warm luxury, thanks to the quilted wraps which highlighted versatile looks one could wear no matter the environment.
With a musing for colourful arts and Danish renaissance, Lovechild 1979 used deadstock fabrics to unveil a collection composed of slanted cuts and tactile materials. Set in the historical Frederiksberg hall, models walked down the runway to the tones of saxophones, harbouring slim sage dresses, structured hickory suits, and soft rosewood coats. But perhaps what stood out most were the oversized teak wood briefcases, which completed each look to offer a stylish and sustainable collection adapted for urban life.
Saks Potts opened the iconic Tivoli amusement park and concert hall on a dark Wednesday night to reveal its uptown collection to the beat of the local youth guard marching band. With the intention to celebrate the idea of a warm home during winter, Saks Potts enlisted friends, toddlers, and pregnant models for a runway full of leopard, cherry leather, and bright greens. Each look emanated a woody yet vintage feel and was fully made of certified materials.
Frozen lakes and ice grotto were the inspiration behind Stine Goya backdrop. Galvanised by climate change, lack of snow, and the arctic ice melting, the brand unveiled a colourful collection of melted snow patterns and metallic fabrics. For some, it was Stine Goya signature prints on puffers with marked-waist, tailored suits, and hugging bodycon dresses. But overall, it was the fluffy knits and golden silhouette completing the collection that created the perfect ski-resort-inspired wardrobe.
Set in the cobblestone-filled neighbourhood of ChristiansHavn, MKTD honoured the female silhouette of the 40s: one that was neutral and structured. Each piece was shaped with simplicity and precision, whether that was the layered wool coats or tailored pantsuits. Here again prominent were warm shades of grey and brown, hinting that a timeless and contemporary fit never went out of style.
Echoing the wild, young, and free spirit of the 80s, Rotate put on an electric show of sustainably-made evening wear. With bold floral jacquard and the re-interpreted animal prints,
Each piece came with a liberating nonchalance. From mini-dress and eccentric jackets to Y2K two-pieces, Rotate took a vibrant approach to nature, aimed to honour the wild spirit within.
Winter in Copenhagen means that you’re constantly greeted by a blanket of grey in the sky. Yet, instead of loathing it, The Garment chose to celebrate it. Through a timeless and minimalistic aesthetic, the brand offered grey straight-cut coats, subtly-threaded pantsuits, and hand crochet flowers. The result? Layers upon layers ready to bundle you up all winter.
by Laura Avery