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It’s hard to believe that such a mountain of exquisite, authentic and surprising Chinese tastes could exist on east London’s unassuming Worship Street, but it does, and it’s extraordinary. HKK is part of the revered Hakkasan group and received a well-deserved Michelin Star less than a year after opening.
When we visit, on a Monday evening, the quietly decorated interior is already humming with the anticipation of diners in varying stages of their ten- or 15-course meal. The tables are placed around a shining, dimly-lit black counter – the significance of which would be revealed later – and there is an iridescent, cloud-like light feature hanging from above.
The dishes arrive quickly, and we are soon embroiled in the cautious unpicking of a beautifully constructed pre-starter of salty whelk and jellied rice wine. A delicately layered creation of buttery foie gras and roasted chicken follows – we are reluctant to break it, so akin it is to a work of art – and it tastes as complex as it looks. The sensory delight continues with the “HKK supreme seafood soup”, named as if it were on the menu of the most traditional Chinese eatery, which comes with a separate white spoon of shellfish that retains its plump fresh texture throughout its liaison with the truffled broth.
The two dishes that follow are arguably the highlights of the menu, despite being labelled starters. First is the Peking duck, which is cherry wood-roasted for 38 hours until lacquered. This is where the central table comes into play; we are called up to witness the chef effortlessly, elegantly slice the chestnut-brown bird to precision. Three parts are plated: a crisp piece of melting, flavourful skin; a soft, texturally perfect piece of breast; and another, equally beguiling slice, which is placed within a pancake a la tradition. This dish is exceptional, and it is followed by an enchanting trio of dim sum. This is presented in a classic steam-basket with a paint brush on the side – meant for daubing thick, sweet soy sauce onto the parcels. Two more starters come: soft slices of quail in barbeque sauce and Chinese vegetables covered in an XO sauce that makes them reminiscent of the very best Asian comfort food.
Now, because the Chinese mid-autumn harvest festival is approaching, a seasonal substitution is made for the usual sweet interlude that comes at this point in the meal. We are presented with moon cakes – aptly named as they represent the full moon. They’re presented to us before being sliced, and are visual masterpieces, prettily adorned with small, fresh flowers. They are quickly turned into a dish, and are accompanied by a sweet orange tea, as is tradition. The moon cakes are part of the menu until the 13th of September, and make for a delicious novelty whether or not you are celebrating.
And then from somewhere, from the corner of what seems like a dream, a sommelier emerges and begins to pour a glass of sweet, lemony rosé to complement the on-coming main courses. We’re presented first with New Zealand scampi in miso sauce – sweet and soft – then halibut, which has been steamed within a lotus leaf for the freshest texture and herbaceous taste. Soft Wagyu beef follows, decorated discreetly with tiny enoki mushrooms, and then comes the Rhug Farm organic lamb, which is served almost sizzling, on the very brink of too hot, making it exciting and sense-beguiling all at once.
Like many of the plates before it, it was imbibed with this reassuringly familiar, quintessential Chinese taste – the sort of thing you’re hoping for every time you bite into any pan-Asian meal, but often, don’t quite receive. A short intermission allows us to process our thoughts, and realise how full we are, before the desserts arrive. These are delicious, but seem far more English than anything we’ve received so far – strawberries and almond brittle, then raspberries and a rich, melting chocolate mousse.
So impressed we were with our meal at HKK, that we couldn’t resist but quiz the chef Tong Chee Hwee. He was kind enough to oblige, and his answers follow.
HKK is based in London, have you noticed any similarities between Chinese and British cuisine?
At first glance, there may not seem to be any similarities at all. But, if you look closer, (you’ll see that) there are some things we do which are similar. English people have a fondness for deep-fried food, and in Chinese cuisine we use the wok in the same way.
Do you have any must-have British ingredients?
Berkshire pork and Rhug Farm organic lamb.
What do Western diners tend to misunderstand about Chinese cuisine?
China is so large and has around 5000 years of cooking history and there are eight distinct Chinese cuisines. Even Chinese chef struggle to know about each cuisine. Therefore, it is difficult for diners to know what to expect, even if they have some experience.
Has your palate changed since moving to the UK?
[I use] new fresh local ingredients and some organic products. [The result is a] new flavour, with less oil and less salt.
And, finally, who is your biggest culinary inspiration?
My grandmother, her food, she is Hakka. Her dishes are delicious, always.
by Becky Zander
HKK is 88 Worship Street, Broadgate Quarter, London EC2A 2BE
Tel: 020 3535 1888