Israel is a land of contradictions and Tel Aviv, its most cosmopolitan city, is no exception. One of the most striking things about Tel Aviv is its newness. A little over a century ago, a group of Jewish families struck out into the desert and walked just a few miles from the ancient Arab town of Jaffa, home to none other than the Jaffa orange. The families stopped in an unremarkable patch of desert close to the sea and decided that that was where they would build their town. Today there is a small monument marking that spot on what has become Rothschild Boulevard – Tel Aviv’s central avenue. As you might expect, the buildings closest to the monument are the city’s oldest and were designed in the eclectic, colonial fashion of the time.
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But as you walk down the street you are literally walking through the ages and the brief history of the city. Every 100 yards or so the buildings become a decade newer, colonial gives way to art deco and then to what Tel Aviv was awarded UNESCO world heritage status for, its Bauhaus buildings.
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Being such a young city, not only in its own age, but also in the fact that the average age of its inhabitants is 18 and only 10 per cent are over 65, it has unsurprisingly become one of the most liberal cities in the Middle East. It welcomes tourists in droves and the beaches throng with bikini and speedo-clad sun-worshippers. Unlike most of the world’s popular beaches though, this beach is actually full of locals. And the effect is a lively mix of ad hoc football tournaments, windsurfers, quirky bars and cafes, and the constant tap tap sound from the persistent games of their beloved Matkot – a kind of beach ping pong without a table. Israel does not have a national sport but if it did, Matkot surely would be it.
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The city prides itself on not taking life too seriously and after the conflicts which have surrounded the country for so long, the inhabitants seem to have foregone the heavy business of politics in pursuit of lighter and more enjoyable pastimes. The best of all these pursuits are the city’s bars, and Tel Aviv is the Middle East’s city that never sleeps. Firstly, it is important to note that Israelis abhor chains. Our guide proudly boasted that Israel was one of the only countries without a single Starbucks. “They tried to open franchises here; they closed within months. We already have the best coffee in Israel, so who needs Starbucks?” he exclaims. This attitude prevails across every aspect of culture and not least among the city’s numerous bars and night spots.
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Each bar we walked into imbibed us with its unique and edgy atmosphere. Particular highlights included Nanuchka, an Eastern European bar and restaurant decorated with kitsch household items such as lamps and books, bustling on a Friday night with a resident DJ in full swing. Just try not to mind the waiting staff brusquely pushing you out of the way with plates and cutlery racks – it seems to be part of the experience. Bar Jimmy Who offers an interesting dichotomy of Soviet era interiors – the owners went to great expense to recreate a Russian factory/spacecraft – and a very cool soundtrack of funk, dub and hip hop. A great place to end the night is Radio EPGB, with friendly, hipster bar staff, eclectic tunes and intriguing miniature dancing silhouettes projected onto little picture frames, this is a favourite with locals and a great place to soak up the joie de vivre of the Tel Avian inhabitants.
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Of course, be sure to line your stomach first in one of the city’s numerous excellent eateries. The city describes itself as a collective of immigrants and the diverse origins of its inhabitants are reflected in the cuisine. Try Kimmel Restaurant for an exquisite medley of European fare prepared with a contemporary finish. Or Dixie Grill Bar Restaurant is famous for its succulent grilled meat and chicken wings smothered in a special sauce, the recipe for which is a closely guarded secret. And finally, Dr Shakshuka Restaurant, closer to Jaffa, is the perfect place for traditional North African dishes served chaotically in a warm and convivial environment.
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Our final stop in Tel Aviv was the Nalaga’at theatre, where all the performers in the shows and the staff at the restaurant and bar are deaf and/or blind. But rather than it being the piteous and somewhat uncomfortable experience that might have been expected, the centre was a heart-warming and inspirational place, full of young and old people overcoming all odds to take part in a movement against marginalisation. The actors, some of whom are both deaf and blind, have to undergo approximately three years of rehearsals and learn their parts via complex touch sign language. The play itself exposes the hopes and fears of the participants and is an insight into the trials they face daily.
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After the show we were invited into the theatre’s Black Out restaurant where, as the name suggests, you are submerged in utter darkness and, guided only by your waitress, must seat yourself and go about the business of eating and drinking without the aid of sight. This eye-opening experience should not be missed, even if only to remind us of the gratitude we should feel each day for gifts of sound and sight, and for the better attention we should pay to those without.
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This was a poignant note on which to end our trip – not least because the centre also showed Israelis and Arabs fighting side by side to combat discrimination, united by a desire for something even more fundamental to life than land. Tel Aviv certainly embraces its rich and diverse attributes. Its position as the westernmost point in the Middle East and the easternmost point of the Mediterranean has literally created the best of both worlds. The whole city seems to embody the friendly attitude of its inhabitants and makes sure that all who venture within its walls are made to feel welcome.
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by Nicola Kavanagh
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El Al offer flights from London Luton to Tel Aviv from £360.40 per person or from London Heathrow to Tel Aviv from £390.95 per person. The highly recommended Dan Hotel Tel Aviv offers rooms from £257 per person per night. For more information about Israel, please visit here