Shape, colour and texture – bold Brazil – Brazilian designer Paula Cademartori talks to Glass about art, femininity and the power of beauty

Shape, colour and texture – bold Brazil – Brazilian designer Paula Cademartori talks to Glass about art, femininity and the power of beauty

Starting her professional training in industrial design, Paula Cademartori seems an unlikely candidate for a luxury accessory designer but her fascination with the construction of objects led her into jewellery design which was a conduit to her becoming an accessory designer. The accumulation of experiences from industrial design and jewellery have clearly influenced Cademartori’s designs – she says that without the two, her iconic fixture on every handbag, the front buckle, wouldn’t exist. Grateful for this varied start, rather than a linear progression to accessory design, Cademartori credits her understanding of function and aesthetics – fundamental elements in industrial design – to her ability to design shoes, in particular.

Combining vibrant colours with bold structural shapes, her designs have a distinct look. While pared-back modern is a very contemporary look, Cademartori is bridging the gap between modern and classic, feminine colours with bold shapes.

Your background is in industrial design, jewellery and styling. How have these industries helped your creative direction in accessory design?
My background in industrial and jewellery design has been crucial in the design of the buckle, which now is the iconic element and brand logo. I’ve always been fascinated by the study and construction of objects which prompted me to undertake both of those studies.

At which point did you realise you wanted to design luxury accessories?
I have always been interested in fashion and even more in accessories. They have been my strong passion since I was a child and used to play long into the afternoon in my grandmother’s closet with her dresses, bags and jewels.

I decided to create bags because I truly love them, for me the bag is a statement. It is something we wear in addition and therefore it fully reflects our taste and personality. The bag is a woman’s status symbol. I always used to say: “tell me the bag you’re wearing and I’ll tell you who you are!”

Your bags are very painterly, do you practice any other art forms?
Yes, designing my shoe collection. I have introduced a shoe capsule with the new Fall/Winter 2015 collection.

Does Instagram count?
Of course! For many Instagram is a fresh and instant source of inspiration.

Where do you find your inspiration?
From everything that impresses and thrills me. I am a very curious person so am interested in the most diverse creative fields from art, music, cinema, literature; I love collecting images and photos from different time periods and including them in a scrapbook. I am also used to going to the most important trade fairs to get new sources of inspiration and proposals.

When I create a new collection my view on everything is very personal and unique. I interpret my emotions and translate them in shapes, colors and textures.

Do you have a specific process when designing then?
I have a very simple ritual; I need a pair of headphones and some good music to be able to vent to my creativity.

Since your first collection in 2011, how has your style developed?
I have changed many aspects of my collections in the last few years, such as the introduction of new forms, materials and fabrics. With the new Fall/Winter 2015 collection I have also increased the range of products, including small leather goods and a shoe capsule. Despite this my aesthetic vision and style has remained unchanged.

Art, femininity and the power of beauty are still my main references on creating the collections. My will is to create functional and timeless shapes with a perfect balance between design, function and detail whilst revealing spaces which meet the changing needs of the female wardrobe from day to evening.

How important is it for you to keep your bags made in Italy?
It’s really important, Italy is the place with the best artisans in the world. The Made in Italy is an added value for me; whilst being synonymous with quality, craftsmanship and tradition, I think the power of the product is also research and design that lies behind each model that makes up my collections.

What vision do you have for your brand in the next few years?
I’m working hard to create a complete lifestyle brand and hopefully open the first Paula Cademartori boutique. I have a clear vision of what I want to do and where I want to go!

by Stephanie Clair

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Glass Online culture and arts writer

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