SETTING is key to Paul Smith. The Brit-born designer showcased his SS19 menswear collection yesterday in Paris, and above all, a reflection of his current mindset lay at its forefront. So effectively – a prominent sense of Britishness, whether that be manifested through tailoring or styling. Smith scored on both.
What lies at the centre of Smith’s success is his ability to adopt to current cultures without threatening the codes of his own brand. The current youth culture largely desire sportswear, and Smith offers it – but through subdued tones. For SS19, that notion rang through several of his selected print finishes. Bicycle jerseys clad in check were styled atop loose, wide leg, trousers on both men and women alike. Turn to the accessories and the same idea spoke loudly. Bright, two-toned socks were weaved into a checked pattern that ran down the runway like a race-car. There was an evident sense of British heritage, but it was married to the driving desires of the young.
Double-lapel-notch suits dominated looks for men, maintaining Smith’s acclaimed creation of charm, whilst also emitting a consciousness concerning clothing. Because that’s what needs to be reflected through dress: an awareness of the present but through an honest identity. So the additions to his cultural conversation? Printed silk dresses for women and pastel overcoats paired with Chelsea boots for men. Oh – and the literal inclusion of Smith’s history, with photo prints on garments originating from family holidays of his childhood.
Overall, SS19 for Paul Smith is a conversation tailored towards reflection, whether that be of his own coded history or a respect of his present reality. So start your cars – Smith’s summer styles are clearly ready and rearing for the streets.
by Faye Fearon
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