The Valentino show for SS16 had its quiet moments with simple dresses in black or neutral colours but for most part it was pretty wild as the designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli were so clearly inspired by Africa and its nations. Tribal statement jewellery, embellished bags and clutches and sandals with tribal masks engraved in their low heels were accompanying every outfit, even the simplest of dresses.
The inspiration was apparent in even the smallest of details. The models had their hair braided into cornrows and then twisted into a top bun as they were dressed in fringe or patchwork dresses with animal hair and feather-embellished sleeves and collars, leather and suede fringe jackets, tie-dyed separates, gowns with colourful prints of animals living in the African safari and leather bodices worn on top of dresses.
The focus was most definitely on dresses as per usual, dresses with metal chokers with a single pendant of a rhinoceros or a mask were used as collars to hold them together, lace dresses covered with pieces or stripes of leather resembling an armour, fishnet fringe dresses or ones in mesh covered in beaded patterns.
Chiuri and Piccioli seem to be taking a step back from the fragile prettiness with delicate lace and chiffon dresses it came to be known for and started integrating it with different elements, already last season with the mostly black and white and more graphic collection than usual. Moreover, there was not a single red dress in sight this season anymore. Something is happening in Valentino. Watch this space.
by Sara Hesikova
Images courtesy of Karla Otto