Akris is the one brand that can steep its designs in a bit of the theatric sass that fashion appears to be snubbing at the moment, while keeping it tethered to high-quality, thought-through oh-so wearable design. Creative director Albert Kriemler once again displayed his devotion to the kind of artfully technical, intelligent dress which doesn’t patronise, something that deems Swiss company Akris more than worthy of some acclaim. Visors was this season’s quirk, threaded throughout the collection like spectacles were last time around, giving each figure a beguiling mystique prior to the simple statement clothing having their say on what SS15 chic should be.
This season’s mission statement was one of graphic rectangular panelled elegance, quite a mouthful, and quite the stuff of cliché this season, if it’s done wrong that is and Akris have done very right. A modern exercise in art theory, Kriemler summoned us to a private view of his fashion authority take on the originator of the Suprematist movement Kazimir Malevich. At a loss? Kriemler’s enamoured profile of an artist that “reduced any realistic art down to a black square, and made it extremely independent and powerful” may help. The creative directior’s case study took shape with great éclat, taking geometric squares, rectangles and other boxy renderings and somehow managing to follow the line of the body without making it look boxy.
We give Akris a grade A distinction for the clear colour scheme, the laser-cut dress jacket combo and the crisp yet flowing sun dresses in sparkly white. Kriemler also displayed a stylish reserve this season, as aside from the more obvious avant-garde aspects, a black organza and patchwork gown nearly stole the show for sheer design mastery. This was art and commerce at one with each other, so much so that it should payoff culturally and economically, we’re rooting for Akris.
by Liam Feltham
Images courtesy of Style.com