PFW HAUTE COUTURE AW18: the Glass Round Up

IT’S a new week, and with that, the couture shows in Paris have come to a close. With revelations spanning from regal to rockabilly (aka Dior to Chanel), quite simply, it’s been a season of astounding success. Until the next round of ready-to-wear shows begin in September, we’ll be soaking up the craftsmanship offered by the most current collections of couture. So with that, we present a round up of the key AW18 shows unveiled in Paris this week. Voilá!

Zuhair Murad 

Intricacy is an understatement for describing Zuhair Murad’s AW18 couture collection. Taking full reign of embellishment, the Lebanese designer showcased a series of ceremonious gowns, all lined with total grandeur. Colours were rich and assertive – blacks, silvers, golds, oxbloods – and materials complete for couture – velvets, chiffon and satin. The overarching suggestion? A fine sense of mature opulence – loving and empowering alike. Fit for a Queen!

 

Fendi

In a year of many fashion houses taking a fur-free turn – Gucci and Armani included – Fendi’s latest couture collection proved to be a new point of progression. The recent show unveiled an AW18 collection renamed from haute fourrure to haute couture – aka a total transference given that the house was founded as a fur boutique almost a century ago. So what did the renaming signify? Well, the house turned to plenty of other materials. Sequinned suits and tulle dresses were injected amidst a pretty pastel, elegant series of femininity. Is this a new age for Fendi? Only time will tell.

Viktor & Rolf

Extravagance is always unveiled in a Viktor & Rolf couture collection. This season’s episode? Bright white – and plenty of it. Purity pervaded across the runway as models surfaced, styling couture creations across the greatest structural span. It was like stepping into Louis XVIs French monarchy, and model after model – a fresh design for Marie Antoinette surfaced. Over-structured suits, literal duvet dresses and rolls of ruffles – this was couture, both crafted and playful.  Not to mention those huge headpieces which deemed fascinators to be so last year. Wedding ready? Certainly – it’s always right in white. Let them eat cake!

Alexandre Vauthier 

Alexandre Vauthier always has a way of modernising classic eighties glam. Sharp blazers with padded shoulders and buckled waist belts dominated his AW18 couture collection unveiled in Paris this week. They were styled above knee-grazing satin boots and finished with sharp top hats. Emancipation? Certainly. But his suiting series emitted a bit of an equestrian illusion, too. Satin trousers were purposely loose-fitting, and pussy-bow finished shirts unveiled the modern woman, ready and rearing for a ride. Say hello to his chic couture creations – go glamour!

Elie Saab

Every collection by Elie Saab presents a fresh display of femininity. That point was evident in Paris this week as a pleasant parade of pastel pink gowns ran through his AW18 couture collection. But the acclaimed designer also opted to inject a deeper and darker colour palette – showcasing flowing gowns in black, purple, navy. They all carried the classic Saab codes – plenty of pretty embellishments, layer upon layer of tulle, and loads of lace. Saab is a creator of total elegance, always proving that couture craftsmanship is a fine skill that he holds. His current perception on the femme status? Bold and beautiful.

Elsa Schiaparelli 

History never goes away. Given Schiaparelli’s status as a pioneer of couture, the anticipation for a new vision is always high. The AW18 revelation? Bertrand Guyon unveiled a popping collection full of confidence and clarity. Those determinations were set by its colour scheme – hot pink, electric blue, warm orange – with positivity being performed everywhere. So too where patterns. Take the third stand-out look – a collared coat-style dress playing with animalistic prints. Fun and flamboyant – this couture was a nod to the ostentatious personality of the house’s founder. Endless Elsa!

by Faye Fearon