PFW HAUTE COUTURE AW18: Chanel

KARL Lagerfeld never ceases to impress when mapping a collection onto set display. For this morning’s Chanel AW18 couture show, the acclaimed Grand Palais took a trip along the Seine, with classic Parisian signs sitting on its side. Flowing rivers, viridescent book stalls, and even a recreation of the Institut de France – this was Paris in its purest setting. As for the accompanying collection? The engrained chicness of the French house surfaced once more, with plenty of tweed suits and diva dresses.

They graced the scenic space. Up first down the riverside runway was a storming series of Chanel armour. Aka – women clad in the acclaimed tweed suit. Colour was kept to countless shades of grey, asserting an elegant empowerment which paralleled the sharp construct of the co-ord. But this was a couture collection after all, so a party was calling. Amidst charming gowns, ghosts of past decades surfaced. The flapper form featured through feathered hemlines, sequinned embellishments, and jewel-encrusted finishes. But most prominently, the rockabilly ‘80s gal paraded, styling glitzy gowns of the puffball kind – with plenty of metallic material. In short? Draping dresses of desire.

That sartorial charm extended to beauty, too. With heavily smoked eye make-up and hairstyles rolled into sky-high quiffs, the modern Chanel rock chick was sealed. Enter the concluding bride, who was donned in a pastel blue skirt suit, topped off with decadent front embellishments. Stately? To an extent – Lagerfeld sealed a modern rebellious touch through a hip-to-toe side split running along the skirt. Très magnifique!

Following on from yesterday’s Dior’s show which mastered the art of modern simplicity, it’s evident that this is the couture season of splendour. It’s no surprise – with the evident sublimity of the recent Royal Wedding, grandeur is bound to pour into our current fashion collections. So prepare the drinks – Chanel’s couture celebrations are calling.

by Faye Fearon