NYFW18: Oscar De La Renta

WHIMSICAL motifs and royal colours were not spared during the Oscar De La Renta AW18 collection. Bold pinks and yellows evoke a sense of youth from the off, conflicting with the conservative tea-length silhouettes. Contemporary flared sleeves have been sliced at the wrist and left dangling. Floral embellishment and decretive stitching adorn khaki and camel garments, as the bright colours that opened the show are put on hold. Texture comes in the form of Fair Isle knit and quilting, as well as a custom fabric that’s manipulated to appear lightly shredded.

Oscar De La Renta AW18

Oscar De La Renta AW18

Oscar De La Renta AW18

Woodland inspired embroidery and majestic prints are prominent features throughout the collection. Unicorns and monkeys can be spotted amongst the illustrative repeat patterns on A-line skirts and princess coats. A historic reference is obvious throughout the collection, as garment cuts and a quilted and pearled look suggests a mild Tudor influence. To contrast the traditional attributes, modern fabric manipulation is a continued statement from start to end, with memorable scalloped chiffon dresses followed by a show-stopping tuile opera coat in an ombré of tonal reds.

Oscar De La Renta AW18

Oscar De La Renta AW18

Oscar De La Renta AW18

The fairy-tale collection continues to become more enchanting as the show led to the finale. Decadent adornment of ornate shapes became the focal point of the collection. Evening dresses in nude, gold and black have depth due to the heavy use of tulle for volume and exposing the body underneath. The conservative dress cuts have been persistent since the first look, with the majority of hems extending below the knee and a noticeable amount of long sleeves but clever use of materials and prints brought the much-needed youth to the collection.

Oscar De La Renta AW18

Oscar De La Renta AW18

Oscar De La Renta AW18

by Todd Burns